… türkisfarbenes, glasklares Wasser, die weiße Rauchfahne des Etna die sich im tiefblauen Himmel verliert, krude Strassen, eine großartige sizilianische Familie die uns aufnimmt und den eigenen Herd zur Ruhe kommen lässt . . .
Siesta in Tortorici, ein paar Schafe blöcken, hin und wieder eine Hupe von der Durchgangstraße nebenan, die so eng ist, das zwei Autos nur tastend aneinander vorbeikommen. Draußen hängt unsere Wäsche (herrlich mal wieder eine Waschmaschine benützen zu dürfen – da lacht Catys Herz) mit derselben Trägheit in der Sonne, wie sie das ganze Dorf überfallen zu haben scheint.
Der durch ein üppiges Mal überfütterte Bauch, hat eine Schwerkraft entwickelt, die alle zu einem Nickerchen veranlasst hat, während ich versuche, mich dem Gesetz der Schwerkraft wacker zu entziehen, um eine Woche in Worten einzufangen, die so reichhaltig an Erlebtem ist, das ich schon zu Beginn des Unterfangens das Scheitern mitdenken muss.
„An der Esso Tankstelle in Tortorici am Donnerstagnachmittag“, so lautet die Vereinbarung für das Treffen mit meinem Onkel, der hier auf den Namen Thomas hört, weil sich das Wort „Helmut“ mit italienisch sprechenden Lippen und entsprechendem Zungenschlag nicht formen lässt – ähnliches gilt für den Namen „Knut“, weshalb die bald hundertjährige Nonna der Familie mit ihrem strahlendem Schalk im Gesicht das wohlklingende Wort „Nuccio“ auf mich anwendet, was wir aber in der Sonne an der Esso während einer Zigarette auf Abholung wartend noch nicht wissen.
Es ist schön Helmut wieder zu sehen, Salvatore und bald die ganze Familie.
Bis wir alle kennenlernen dürfen, gilt es, die steile, enge Zufahrt mit Eule von der Durchgangstrasse aus kommend zu überwinden ohne den Balkon mitzunehmen oder parkende Autos zu rammen, es gelingt . . .
Wir sind nun schon den dritten Tag hier und alles ist Fülle: Die mehrgängigen Menus, die mit duftender Pasta beginnen bevor zartes Fleisch mit duftenden Aromen dampfend aufgetischt wird.
Es folgen Dolces in Form kleiner Eistüten in unterschiedlichsten Geschmacksvariationen – Pistazie, Schokolade, Erdbeere, Zitrone und Geschmäckern, deren Namen ich nicht kenne und auch nicht zu wiederholen vermag. Dann Dolces in „trockener“ Form, die aussehen wie kleine Torten die in der Sonne geschrumpft zu sein scheinen und mit der Schrumpfung proportional ihren jeweiligen Geschmack mitverdichtet haben. Käsestücke in denen die Vielfalt der Insel über Jahre herangereift ist und die wie eine geschmackliche Entsprechung für die satten Weiden, die blonden Kornfelder und die krustigen Lavasteine wirken.
Dann der sanft – voluminöse Grappa, abgelöst vom süßbitteren Kaffee, zwei Getränke, die den tiefroten, schweren Wein ablösen. Dazu die Stimmen der Familie, das Lachen, das Geplapper des Fernsehers der im Hintergrund unbeachtet Bilder produziert.
Nonna, die unter Einsatz ihrer kurzen kräftigen Arme (um all das gesagte anschaulich zu untermauern) Geschichten erzählt, die uns allen vor Lachen die Tränen in die Augen treibt – und auch wenn ich kaum etwas verstehe, kullern mir die Tränen ebenfalls über die Backen.
Diese Herzlichkeit und Offenheit in liebevoller Wärme, die mitten in der Nacht die gespeicherte Sonne des Tages wiederzugeben scheint…
Ja, das klingt romantisch, möglicherweise Übertrieben. Und so fühlt es sich an, diese Familie, das Land, die Städte und Landschaften, die weiten Blicke . . . alles fühlt sich in seiner Fülle übertrieben an was die Vermutung nahelegt, das es einfach so ist für uns in diesen Tagen.
Danke lieber Thomas (Helmut), danke lieber Salvatore und Familie, Nonna, Nina, Sebastiano . . . !
Vielleicht fällt unser Kühlschrank aus, lässt sich die Seitentüre auf Catys Seite nicht mehr richtig öffnen, fängt das Klo an zu müffeln um uns deutlich zu machen, dass die Gesetze der Natur (Physik), die wir so überschwänglich genießen auch andere Seiten hervorzubringen vermag.
Vielleicht hat ja Eule auch ein Aufmerksamkeitsproblem, denn, wie es scheint, wartet sie mit derartigen Problemen auf um wenig später (durch sonderbare Selbstheilungskräfte angetrieben, die, der Materie zu unterstellen wir uns vehement weigern) wieder zu funktionieren . . .
Abends, wenn die Sonne sich neigt, lassen sich die eigenen Gedanken beobachten, ihre selbstentwickelte Dynamik . . .
Wir sitzen, genüsslich den Blick auf den rauchenden Ätna gerichtet, an dessen Fuße wir heute am Rande einer Lavasteinsenke sitzen und ein kühles Bierchen die Kehle hinabgleiten lassen, als wir knirschend reifen auf dem Kies des Weges wahrnehmen, der zu eben dieser abgeschiedenen Senke führt.
Ein kräftiger Sizilianer entsteigt einem Fiat Panda neueren Datums und betrachtet selbstvergessen den Ätna, die Rauchsäule, die beinahe senkrecht in der abendlichen Windstille emporsteigt. Sein Blick wirkt glücklich und respektvoll zugleich, es liegt Würde in diesem Blick.
Wir kommen in ein Gespräch, in dem er uns über die letzten Ausbrüche berichtet, uns Stellen empfiehlt, wo es sich lohnen würde hinzufahren . . .
Seine letzten Sätze vor der Verabschiedung, in denen er uns fragt, ob wir wirklich hier Übernachten wollen, werden von seinem sorgenvollen Blick begleitet.
Ich frage, ob es ein Problem damit gäbe, so für eine Nacht . . .
„Nein, Nein, kein Problem, es ist halt nur, ich mein ihr seid hier allein heute Nacht, abgeschieden von der Straße. Nein kein Problem, aber trotzdem, vielleicht besser nicht …, hier so allein . . ., aber kein Problem, Bonna Notte“ und damit lässt er uns zurück . . . (Wer jetzt fälschlicherweise annimmt, meine Italienischkenntnisse während derart herangereift, dass ich das alles Verstanden hätte . . . dennoch, ich habe den Sätzen genug entnommen, um zu verstehen, dass er sich Sorgen um uns macht):
Und da ist sie wieder, die leise Unsicherheit, die tausendfachen Vorurteile, als hätte irgendein Sizilianer oder gar die Mafia das leiseste Interesse daran, ausgerechnet uns an diesem Abend in einer Geröllwüste zu besuchen um ein 15 Jahre altes Mobil mit zwei hoffnungslosen Romantikern bewohnt, auseinanderzunehmen.
Trotzdem denke ich (ohne es Caty zu sagen): vielleicht will es ja der Zufall, dass ausgerechnet heute zwei Mafiosi ihren Auftrag in dieser Grube beenden, indem sie die erledigte Leiche vergraben und uns dann als Zeugen selbstverständlich, wenngleich ungern (was für uns nicht mehr entscheidend wäre) eben gezwungenermaßen auch begraben müssten . . .
Es sind vermutlich die Spätfolgen meiner Leidenschaft für die Serie „Die Sopranos“, die nach Jahren plötzlich wieder lebendig in meiner Phantasie auftauchen . . .
//Anmerkung von Caty: In der stillen und herrlich ruhigen Nacht, die begleitet ist von Regentropfen – ja in Sizilien regnet es! – versuche ich die Stimme aus meinem Kopf zu verbannen und beginne mit der alten Kindermethode um wieder in den Schlaf zu gleiten – ich zähle die Regentropfen und übe den Atem durchs linke Nasenloch- der beruhigt und meine Mondseite anspricht (die ruhige, weibliche, stille Seite – wie wertvoll und hilfreich das Yoga mir immer wieder ist 🙂
Ja, die Nächte und ihre Stimmen, Geräusche und Klänge, der jede Nacht der neu undefinierbare und unbekannte Singsang unser Welt….. darüber könnte ich viel schreiben……. – sie begleiten mich an unseren einsamen – aber doch so herrlichen Plätzen und ich übe mich im Vertrauen – erstmal in die Nacht und an den Platz aber am Ende an das Leben –Alles ist GUT!! ( und jede Nacht aufs Neue dankbar dass Knut neben mir liegt – dem all das nichts auszumachen scheint und genüsslich träumt – ich aber weiß im Notfall ist er von einer Sekunde auf die andere topfit und präsent …. Ich teste es immer wieder mit Kleinsorgen in der Nacht J )
Ob es mir bis zum Ende unser Reise gelingen wird dem Lauf der Dinge zu vertrauen??!!!Zu tiefst zu wissen dass wir geborgen sind im Schoß des Gehen und Kommens – im Flow Sein?!
Knut weiß um meine Sorgen und ich bin glücklich dass er es sieht und mich lobt für meinen Mut – obwohl es für ihn keinen Mut bedeutet – gibt er mir das Gefühl tapfer zu sein- und ich das spüren darf dass ich über meine kleine Grenzen der gewohnten Sicherheit mich erhebe- doch wo und was ist sicher?- wer darf sein Haupt zur Ruhe legen und wissen am Morgen ist alles noch beim Alten- „Gewohnten“ ? – ist es wirklich anders als in meiner kleinen Bude in Tübingen?
Lustiger Weise denke ich nachts mehr Erfahrungen zu gewinnen als am Tag ;.)—- //
Nachtrag Tortorici: am Abend lädt Thomas (Helmut) zum Dank für großartige Tage die nähere Familie in das Restaurant am Platze ein – 20 Menschen, 4 Generationen . . .
In dieser Hinsicht war und ist mein wunderbarer Onkel Helmut schon immer Sizilianer: seine Gastfreundschaft und Großzügigkeit passt zu diesem Ort, als wäre er hier Geboren . . .
Die Kellner sind geübt darin, große Tafeln zu bedienen, geschmeidig werden in stimmigen Abständen Teller auf der großen Tafel abgelegt – zehn verschiedene Köstlichkeiten gleiten da vorbei, von eingelegtem Löwenzahn (für mich die erstaunlichste Entdeckung des Abends: ein Unkraut mutiert zur Delikatesse), über Schinken, Zucchini, dampfend heißem Käse…
Und ich schaue in die freundlichen Gesichter dieser Menschen, Gesichter, in denen neben den lebendigen Augen auch die Kanten, die Schwere eines harten Arbeiterlebens eingraviert sind.
Ein Großteil jener Menschen hat in Fabriken, auf Baustellen und in Restaurants den deutschen Wohlstand gemehrt, hat deutschen Kleinstädten den Reichtum ihrer Küche in ihre piefike Wirklichkeit eingepflanzt während wir, die Kinder der 80iger Jahre lautstark „Spagettifresser“ über den Schulhof riefen.
Ich fühle große Dankbarkeit und denke mit kopfschütteln an meine kindlichen Äußerungen von damals . . .
Der Abschied am nächsten Morgen brennt etwas im Gemüt obwohl ich noch einen Topolino fahren darf (FIAT 500), der 10 Jahre älter ist als ich.
Die 97 jährige Nonna sagt zum Abschied: „wer langsam geht, kommt weiter – ruft mich an, scheene Sondelfingen (hat 12 Jahre bei der Firma Groll Matratzen hergestellt), scheene Sizilia, Tortorici, Citta delle belle Donne und delle belle Montagnia.
Als wir losfahren, Richtung Kalabrien ahnen wir, dass es mehr ist als der Abschied von Tortorici, es ist der Abschied von einer begnadeten Insel und es steht zu befürchten, dass sich diese Vielfalt nicht wiederholen wird.
In Kalabrien werden wir in Serrata im Dorfkern an der Kirche von Domenico in seinem Fiat Multipla erwartet – wir parken Eule ab und werden im Dorf in einem „hab – isch- – alles – Kiosk“ auf ein Dreher (Bier) eingeladen, alte Männer mit Stöcken, die im Schatten des Oleanders sitzen beäugen uns freundlich. . .
Die Dorfglocke läutet, der Vollmond bescheint die kleine Terasse, ein Hund bellt…
Diese Woche geht zu Ende, ohne Syrakus, Catania, Taomina und Noto gewürdigt zu haben, aber wie Eingangs erwähnt, es war klar, dass in dieser üppigen Woche vieles unerwähnt bleiben würde . . .
Schööön ????
Liebe Caty, lieber Nuccio zu schade, dass ich den Namen erst heute kennenlerne, ich hätte ihn glatt für Dich ausgewählt, klingt so schnuckelig. Toll was ihr alles erleben dürft, ja, liebe Caty, dazu gehören auch diese grummeligen Nachtgefühle,aber Du kennst ja mein Geheimnis,erprobt in 25 Jahren “ wilden Campens“. Aber Du musst zugeben, die Morgende sind dafür unvergleichlich wunderbar!
Wir waren ein paar Tage in Frankreich bei Seba mit 5 Kindern,es war turbulent aber trotzdem erholsam. Die südliche Sonne, der See ,die stille Landschaft, die vielen Gespräche, die gute Laune,rundherum schön!! Vor kurzem habe ich Euch eine ganz lange mail geschrieben mit Einigen Insidertipps für Griechenland, aber leider konnte ich sie nicht verschicken, vielleicht weil ich sie an Nuccios alte Adresse geschickt habe!?!? Eure Berichte sind eine einzige Freude, danke, dass Ihr Euch dazu so viel Zeit nehmt, ich wünschte mir Flügel um Euch ab und zu besuchen zu können. Na ja ich rechne fest damit, dass wir uns in Schweden treffen. Wir starten etwa um den 7. Aug. Caty ich wusste gar nicht, dass Du so eine geistig – philosophische Ader hast, Deine Texte zu den Übungen sind nicht zu übertreffen. Weiterhin reiche Tage und- ruft mal wieder an . Tschüssle !
Ihr zwei lieben, es freut mich so sehr, dass ihr so viele wunderbare Menschen trefft und an solch unglaublich schönen Orten verweilen, ausruhen und Kraft schöpfen könnt.
Dass alle so nett zu euch sind, kann ich gut verstehen. ‚-)
Danke danke, lieber Knut, für deine so lebendigen Berichte, die uns mitnehmen und die Sehnsucht wecken. …
Bleibt behütet und tapfer . 🙂
Gabi
Ihr Lieben! ich bin ganz begeistert von eurer Reise und den tollen Berichten!Gerade sitzt ich in meinem Garten in Reutlingen in sommerlicher Wärme unter einem üppig blühenden Oleander und der Duft meines von Blüten übersäten Mandarinenbaumes steckt mir in der Nase. (Alles echt!)Dazu euer Reisebericht von bella Italia!Da bekomme ich doch gleich Reisefieber.All eure tollen Erfahrungen konnte ich Anfang der 70 mit meinem 2 CV machen! Da ich 2 Jahre in Italien gelebt hatte-die grosse Reise war das Ende der schönen Zeit-war ich immerhin der Sprache (bis heute) mächtig. Trotzdem erlebte ich ähnliche Situationen wie ihr! Aber es ist und bleibt ein wunderbares Land, liebenswerte Menschen, grandioses Essen und la lingua della musica!Weiterhin gute Fahrt und falls Ihr Sehnsucht nach kühlen Nächten haben solltet, Caty kennt die Adresse meines kleinen Häuschens in den schönen Alpen!!!! Mille baci!
Was ich vergessen habe: die Yogaübungen sind 1A!Mit der warmen Mauer und dem Heuballen im Wohnzimmer hatte ich wenig Probleme. Auch der Vulkan war lösbar nach einem schönen Kaminfeuer, aber sonst…… :)))))
Ihr Lieben! Es ist reine Freude an Eurer Reise teilnehmen zu dürfen!! Ja, die Nächte in der Einsamkeit schaffen ganz neue Erfahrungen- was es da alles zu hören gibt und von der Phantasie
aufgegriffen und gestaltet wird……. Aber mit der Aufmerksamkeit, wie Caty ihre Übungen macht, kann man doch ganz gut nach einer Weile und tiefem Einatmen am Ort abspüren, ob man bleiben darf…
Und dann begleiten Euch ja eine große Zahl an guten, herzlichen Gedanken!! Freue mich schon auf den nächsten Bericht!! Paps
Hallo ihr beiden, heute bin ich das erste Mal seit langer Zeit wieder in eurem blog und freue mich mit euch über eure tollen Begegnungen und Erlebnisse in Italien. Es macht viel Spaß die Berichte zu lesen … da seid ihr beiden wirklich begabt 😉 wir vier durften in den Pfingstferien – leider nur eine Woche – auch in Italien im Friaul weilen. Sende euch einen herzlichen Gruß – Heidrun
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Jedna z ankiet przeprowadzonych przez magazyn Oprah dotyczyła kobiet, których partnerzy wzięli Viagrę, aby sprawdzić, czy było to dobre lub złe dla ich związku. Wyniki były interesujące. Podczas gdy 15 procent twierdziło, że lek zniszczył ich związek, 17 procent stwierdziło, że uratowało ich. Chociaż 13 procent ubolewało nad ograniczoną uwagą na miłość ustną i manualną, około połowa respondentów stwierdziła, że sprawiło, że seks stał się lepszy.
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j uzyskać erekcję. W rezultacie Viagra stała się dostępna jako leczenie ED w 1998 roku. Jak działa generyczna Viagra? Działa tak samo jak markowa Viagra – zarówno ogólne, jak i markowe formy Viagry działają w ten sam sposób i dają takie same rezultaty. Oboje pracują, zwiększając przepływ krwi do penisa, co ułatwia uzyskanie i utrzymanie erekcji . Jak dobrze działają? – u mężczyzn z zaburzeniami wzwodu obie formy Viagry okazały się skuteczne w około 2/3 mężczyzn, którzy je przyjmują. Zajmują one zwykle około 30-60 minut, ale trwają do czterech godzin, więc możesz je zabrać wcześniej. Ważne jest jednak, aby pamiętać, że będą działać tylko w p
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jest dostępna do kupienia bez recepty , bez recepty Jak dobrze działają? Działają prawie tak samo dobrze, jak siebie nawzajem. Jednak liczba osób, w których pracuje Viagra, jest nieco wyższa i wynosi 84, w porównaniu z około 81 w przypadku Cialis Jedzenie nie wpływa na działanie Cialis Viagra może pracować gorzej, jeśli jadłeś ostatnio, zwłaszcza jeśli był to posiłek o dużej zawartości tłuszczu Jak długo pracują Efekty Cialis trwają dłużej – do 36 godzin Efekty Viagry trwają od 4 do 5 godzin Cialis często działa dobrze przez weekend, a czasem nazywany jest „weekendową pigułką”, ponieważ jego działanie utrzymuje się do 36 godzin Dawki, w
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urzeń erekcji dostępne bez recepty. Jednak wszystkie inne leki stosowane w leczeniu zaburzeń erekcji można najpierw kupić online bez recepty fizycznej , tak samo jak Viagra wydawana tylko na receptę. Te inne zabiegi są tylko na receptę, ale nie potrzebujesz fizycznej recepty. Po prostu potrzebujesz odpowiedniej oceny od lekarza, którą możesz uzyskać online. Inne pigułki na zaburzenia erekcji obejmują: Cialis and Cialis Daily – aktywny składnik, tadalafil Levitra – aktywny składnik, wardenafil Spedra – składnik aktywny, awanafil Innym lekiem bez pigułek stosowanym w leczeniu zaburzeń erekcji jest Alprostadil . To środek rozszerzający naczyn
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i działaniami niepożądanymi Cialis i Cialisu Skutki uboczne Cialis mogą być bardziej prawdopodobne i trudniejsze do zniesienia, ponieważ trwają znacznie dłużej niż Cialis Z tego samego powodu Cialis może częściej wchodzić w interakcje z innymi lekami, które przyjmujesz. Może to powodować same skutki uboczne. Jeśli zażywasz pewne leki, szczególnie leki zwane alfa-blokerami (np. Doksazosyna, tamsulosyna lub alfuzosyna), może to spowodować niebezpieczny spadek ciśnienia krwi, więc Cialis może nie być zalecany Zamów leczenie zaburzeń erekcji 4 opakowania tabletek powlekanych 50mg Pfizer Cialis wiagra od 32,00 £ 4 opakowania po 50 mg tabletek po
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