Der Abschied naht…

Wir wissen, dass es die letzten Tage in diesem begnadeten Land sind,
die einsetzende Hitze macht uns den bevorstehenden Abschied leichter, die Vorfreude auf Freunde gibt uns den Impuls . . .

Den ersten Tag in Casa Bruno nutzen wir, Eule für die Weiterreise zu präparieren und mit gewissen Erstaunen stellen wir fest, dass unsere täglich ausgeführte Kehrwoche im Geiste jahrhunderteralter schwäbischer Tradition noch genug an Reisepatina übrig gelassen hat, um das Unterfangen nach getaner Arbeit als durchaus lohnend einzustufen.


Wer immer nach Tübingen kommt und kulinarisch verwöhnt werden möchte, etwas kosten möchte von dem reichen Erbe an Köstlichkeiten aus dem Süden Italiens, dem sei der Stern in Tübingen ans Herz gelegt, das von Bruno geführte kleine Restaurant.
http://www.stern-tuebingen.de/
An diesem Ort mitten in der Altstadt Tübingens, erfolgte die offenherzige Einladung Brunos in sein Haus in Kalabrien.
Nun sind wir da und Domenico, sein Cousin, nimmt uns auf wie alte Freunde.
Am Abend sind wir bei Familie Domenico – wieder die italienische Gastfreundschaft, die wir vom nördlichsten Teil Italiens (Aosta) bis zum südlichsten (Sizilien) überall erlebt haben.
Frische, rohe Sardellen als Antipasti, Spagetti Vongole, Kirschen, jede einzelne halbiert und entkernt in einem Sud, der all diese Geschmäcker abrundet wie das sprichwörtliche Pünktchen auf dem i.
Seelisch nährt uns die Herzenswärme und Offenheit dieser Familie, von Bruno und seiner Tochter die wir bei nüchterner Betrachtung kaum kennen und trotzdem wirkt alles sehr vertraut. Danke!


Dann sind wir wieder unterwegs. Mittlerweile habe ich meinen Blick für die Straßen, insbesondere für die Bodenwellen erheblich geschärft – sie lassen sich erst relativ spät erkennen, weil sie, anders als die zahlreichen Schlaglöcher, nicht durch harte Kanten begrenzt sind die in der Mittagssonne schwarze Schattenränder bilden. Bodenwellen tauchen einfach auf, das Fahrzeug macht dann einen bedeutenden Satz nach oben, das Bett über uns schwingt als Reaktion darauf bedrohlich hinab in Richtung unserer Köpfe, die wir reflexhaft einziehen. Begleitet wird das von den Klängen klappernden Geschirrs, die sowohl rhythmisch als auch in Form variierender Lautstärke die Stöße im Innenraum des Fahrzeuges in ihre spezifische Sprache übersetzen, gewissermaßen ein wohlkomponierter, akustischer Fahrbahnzustandsbericht. Kleine Abbruchkanten im Teer, bilden wie Schlaglöchern, kurze, spitzklingende helle Töne ohne Nachhall, während Bodenwellen eine musikalische Gesamtkomposition erzeugen, die wie der Auftakt eines kleinen Orchesters klingen (oder wie der Inhalt einer Spülmaschine im Mixer, je nach Interpretation der Sachlage).
Die allfälligen Renovierungsarbeiten werden durch kleine Tempolimit Schilder ersetzt, die am Straßenrand aufgeklappt und durch einen Stein beschwert werden. Dort setzten sie bis zur Unkenntlichkeit Rost an. Während man rätselt, wieso da auf einer Autobahn plötzlich 30km/h, 50km/h oder gerne auch mal nur 20km/h gefahren werden soll (man selbst schon 80 km/h fährt), wird man von waghalsigen Überholmanövern dritter von der nächsten Bodenwelle abgelenkt.
So holpern wir in Matera ein und trotz der Tatsache, dass praktisch jedes italienische Städtchen mit außergewöhnlichen Gebäuden aufwartet, wir mithin schon etwas abgestumpft sind, werden wir hier aus unserer kulturellen Überfütterugslethargie gerissen. Dieses Städtchen klebt am Rande eines Canyon. Seine Behausungen sind zu geschätzten 20% in die massiven Felsen gehauen.  Die Anbauten sind an die Felsen hin komponiert, wodurch eine außergewöhnliche städtische Gesamtstruktur entstanden ist.
Noch am gleichen Tag kommen wir in die Region von Alberobello und wieder werden wir überrascht: hier sind eine Vielzahl der Häuser Feldsteinrundbauten mit spitzzulaufenden runden Dächern, Trullis genannt. Diese Häuser sehen aus wie aneinandergereihte marokkanische Tajine in Weiß. Caty geht als prompte, unumkehrbare körperliche Sofortreaktion das Herz sehr weit auf – es ist die sprichwörtliche Liebe auf den ersten Blick, sofern eine solche Liebe für Häuser möglich ist (der leuchtende Blick, das offene Strahlen in ihrem Gesicht legen die Vermutung nahe, das es möglich zu sein scheint).


Die Fähre von Grimaldi Lines, mit der wir Italien für dieses Mal endgültig verlassen, scheint wie ein Vorspiel für die (eingebildete?) Mutmaßung, dass das paradiesische Wohlleben Italiens nun  ganz anderen Verhältnissen wird weichen müssen. (Unsere Hamsterkäufe italienischen Weins, Wurst und Käses in den Tiefen des Mobils mildern diesen Umstand nur durch eine trügerische, weil endliche Sicherheit ab).

Mittlerweile haben wir Bulgarien erreicht, Anke und Tobias getroffen und sind nun zu viert in diesem Land unterwegs, dessen Ursprünglichkeit uns begeistert obwohl sie zweifellos der bitteren Armut geschuldet ist.
Davon bald mehr . . .

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