Tage der Ruhe im Herzen Schwedens . . .

Straßen wie endlose Bänder aus Asphalt, der kleine „Supermarkt“ in den wenigen Dörfern heißt ICA oder Coop, Tage mit selbstgepflückten Pilzen und Blaubeeren, das Licht steht tief im wasserklaren nordischen Himmel . . .

Die Einsamkeit nimmt merklich zu, auf den Hauptverkehrsachsen hat sich das Verhältnis Volvos / Wohnmobile zwar kaum verändert, die Anzahl der entgegenkommenden Fahrzeuge ist allerdings nahe null.

Die Fahrer der drei Wohnmobile, die wir im Verlaufe eines Tages sehen, grüßen bei der Vorbeifahrt beinahe herzlich (das heißt, ihr stoischer sonnenbebrillter Blickt hellt sich beim Heben der Hand etwas auf) und obgleich diese Fahrzeugart weiterhin nichts von ihrer Hässlichkeit verloren hat (von dieser Aussage muss, um bei der Wahrheit zu bleiben, Eule explizit ausgeschlossen werden 😉 ) erwidern wir den Gruß schon beinahe so, als wären wir gemeinsam mit den Entgegenkommenden Mitglied in einer Art Geheimbund neuzeitlicher Vikinger, verbunden durch das Wissen um die mystische Natur des Nordens.

Dabei befinden wir uns noch in Mittelschweden, was sich auf unserer Skandinavien Überblickskarte vom ADAC beinahe so ausnimmt, als hätten wir gerade erst einen Fuß auf skandinavischem Grund gesetzt.
5 Tage ist es nun her, seit wir meine Eltern am südlichen Rand Mittelschwedens an einem See mit goldenem Strand, den zuvor übermittelten Koordinaten folgend, getroffen haben.

Als wir eintreffen, sehe ich schon von Ferne das silberne Haar meines Vaters in der Nachmittagssonne schimmern – er nimmt uns herzlich und aufrichtig erfreut in Empfang – meine Mutter ein wenig später ebenso,  lesend in dem liebevoll ausgebauten Mercedes 208D sitzend, der mir aus Kindertagen so vertraut ist.

Es ist der Beginn wunderbarer gemeinsamer Tage, in denen wir wenig fahren und sehr viel tiefer Eindringen in das Innere des Landes, in Wäldern umherstreichen, Blaubeeren und Pilze sammeln, dem spätabendlichen tanzenden leichten Nebel zuschauen, der über der tiefschwarzen spiegelglatten Wasseroberfläche aufsteigt, am Tag dem silbrigen Lichtspiel der gekräuselten Wellen folgend, in der Dämmerung schweigend im weichen Moos stehend, in der Hoffnung Elche zu erspähen.

Ich verspüre eine sehr seltsame, wohltuende Gleichzeitigkeit meiner glücklichsten Kindheitstage (11 Jahre meiner Kindheit waren Sommertage in Skandinavien, die von ähnlichem Licht, von ähnlichen Seen und ungekannter innerer Weite geprägt waren) und dem Hier und Jetzt mit Caty und meinen Eltern, als würde ich die Sommertage meiner Kindheit aus der Zukunft kommend, ein weiteres Mal erleben. Der Geschmack gezuckerter Blaubeeren in Milch, das kalte Wasser an kalten Morgen . . .

Verwurzelt in diesen Kindheitstagen, mit graumelierten Bart, der immer länger wird, weil Fritzle meinen Barthaartrimmer zerstört hat und hier Ersatz nicht zu bekommen ist, nehme ich mich wahr als den leicht ergrauten Mann der zusammen mit sich als dem blonden Kind an einem nordischen Sommersee sitz, die Melodie rauschender Birkenblätter im Ohr.

Vermutlich denken meine Eltern diese Tage, die meine Kindheitstage waren, ebenfalls mit, begleitet von einer Gedankenkategorie, die mir nur aufgrund der Statistik noch ferner liegt, obwohl sie für mich in gleicher Weise Gültigkeit haben könnte, der Kategorie welche die Möglichkeit beschreibt, das dieser Ort, an dem wir sind, wahrscheinlich einer ist, den sie nicht mehr aufsuchen werden, trotz seiner einmaligen Schönheit. Die Kategorie des „zum letzten Mal“

Morgens um 7:45 Uhr. Caty kuschelt sich noch Mal an mich heran, bevor sie aufsteht und heißes Wasser macht, mit dem ihre diversen Teebehälter gefüllt werden und mein gemahlener Kaffee übergossen wird. Ich kann mich also noch einmal kurz umdrehen! Obwohl ich es nicht sehe, weiß ich, dass sich zu diesem Zeitpunkt die Füße meines Vaters schon durch den morastigen Grund des glasklaren colafarbenen Sees bewegen, in Kürze von meiner Mutter gefolgt. Caty, nach ihrer täglichen Yogapraxis verschwindet etwas später ebenfalls im eiskalten Nass, während ich noch immer liege und, Privileg des älter Werdens, mich dem kategorischen Imperativ der Kindheitstage entziehe, nachdem ich selbstverständlich in dem kalten See bade, wenn Vater es tut – und er tut es immer, bis heute!
Während ich die Decke hochziehe wird es mir weniger durch die Decke warm, als durch das Gefühl der Hochachtung vor meinen Eltern . . .

Der Regen klatsch vom Wind über die offene See vor sich her getrieben, gegen unser Mobil, dass heute in Nachbarschaft zu den viel zitierten Dreiachsern steht.
Versorgungstag auf dem Campingplatz Sälstens in Härnösand mit Blick aufs Meer – wir nutzen den grauen, regnerischen Himmel, um Wäsche zu waschen, Fächer zu reinigen, uns Überblick über die Vorräte zu verschaffen.
Gestern haben wir uns in Asarna von meinen Eltern verabschiedet. Noch am Vortag haben wir bei klarem, sonnigem Wetter wandernd die Berglandschaft um den Särfjället erkundet und abends am Lagerfeuer, Köttbulla und Pilzsauce aus eigener Ernte genossen.

Der Abschied hatte den typischen Geschmack von fülliger Trauer und der unweigerlich folgenden Leere verbunden mit dem Wissen, dass die Reise weiter geht, der hohe Norden auf uns wartet.
Es ist rauer hier oben, die Lieblichkeit von den Filmorten Bullerbü und Michel aus Lönneberga, die wir uns vor wenigen Wochen angesehen haben, scheint in weite Ferne gerückt. Immer wieder sprechen wir von Astrid Lindgren, deren Museum wir in Vimmerby, ihrem Heimatort besucht haben. Sie war Zeit ihres Lebens ein emanzipatorischer Geist, eine starke Frau die sich mit klaren Worten in die Politik eingemischt hat, während sie Kinderbücher schrieb, die den Hörigkeits – Muff der 50iger und 60iger Jahre auf den Kopf stellte – ein Mädchen, frei und alleine lebend, überdimensional stark und stets eine freiere, gerechtere Welt lebend erschuf sie für die Welt unter dem Namen Pippi Langstrumpf und stieß bei weitem nicht bei allen auf Begeisterung – sie war der Antiheld schlagender Väter, strenger Poppen und eingeschüchterter Mütter. Kinder müssen spielen, spielen, spielen, solange es  möglich ist, immer wieder wies sie darauf hin und auch auf den an sich leicht nachvollziehbaren Zusammenhang zwischen geschlagenen Kindern, die als Erwachsene durch die Idee, das ein paar Schläge Kindern noch nie geschadet hätten, keine besseren Erwachsene wurden! (beinahe alle Diktatoren hatten einen gewalttätigen Hintergrund).

Ein Gedicht von Astrid Lindgren

Wäre ich Gott, dann würde ich weinen
über die Menschen, sie, die ich geschaffen
zu meinem Ebenbild.
Wie ich weinen würde über ihre Bosheit
und Gemeinheit und Rohheit und Dummheit
und die armselige Güte und hilflose Verzweiflung
und Trauer.

Und wie ich weinen würde über ihre Herzensangst
und ihren ewigen Hunger ihre Sorge
und Todesfurcht und trostlose Einsamkeit
und über ihre Schicksale,
ihre erbärmlichen kleinen Schicksale
und ihr blindes Tasten nach jemand…
irgendeinem! Vielleicht nach mir!

Und wie ich weinen würde über alle Todesschreie
und alles Blut, das so vergeblich fließt,
so zutiefst vergeblich, und über den Hunger
und die Hoffnungslosigkeit und die Not
und alle wahnsinnigen Qualen und einsame Tode
und über die Gefolterten, die schreien und schreien,
und über die Folterer noch mehr.

Und dann die Kinder, alle, alle Kinder,
über sie würde ich am allermeisten weinen.
Ja, wäre ich Gott,
gewiss würde ich viel über die Kinder weinen,
denn nie habe ich mir gedacht,
dass sie es so wie jetzt haben sollten.
Ströme, Ströme würde ich weinen, damit
sie ertrinken könnten in den gewaltigen Fluten
meiner Tränen, alle meinen armen Menschen,
und endlich Ruhe wäre.
 
Deutsch von Anna- Lisa Kornitzky

 

Nach einer kleinen Verhandlung, dürfen wir den Schlüssel zum Waschraum über Nacht behalten – während in den Dreiachsern die Satelittenschüsseln bereits seit Stunden stabile Signale Empfangen und die Dreiachsbewohner mit Bildern versorgen, können wir unsere Wäschekette bis ins letzte Glied auf Anfang bringen – ein Umstand der uns sehr zufriedenstellt und uns mit der Gewissheit beschenkt, dass es der letzte Campingplatz sein wird, den wir anfahren müssen.

Über dem schwarzen Rand der Wälder, verabschiedet sich das Sonnenlicht blutorange, wirft Farbe auf das Stahlblau der See. Caty wirbelt mit den Lappen, von denen sie weiß, dass sie in der letzten Waschmaschine wieder in ihren Topmodus zurückgeführt werden, durch die Eingeweide von Eule, mit einem freudig leuchtendem Blick, der dem Abendrot in Bezug auf Leuchtkraft kaum nachsteht.
Es geht auf Mitternacht zu, noch eine Zigarette, bevor die letzte Maschine aus der Waschmaschine in den Trockner kann.

Lulea ist die letzte Stadt im Norden der schwedischen Ostküste, von hier aus fahren wir gleich weiter durch Lappland direkt nach Narvik:
Das wir jetzt hier sitzen um den Blog rauszuschicken, verdanken wir einem gütigen Schicksal…
Kurz bevor wir hier eingetroffen sind, habe ich im Kreisverkehr den Weg Richtung Gammelstad genommen, beschleunigend in die breite Strasse einfahrend – Caty schrilles „Achtung“ fällt beinahe zusammen mit der Bewegung, die ich im linken Blickfeld wahrnehme – ein Radfahrer fährt ungebremst in unsere Richtung. Ich haue mit aller mir zur verfügungstehenden Kraft die Bremse rein – Eule steht, noch bevor wir den Radfahrer berühren, der direkt vor dem Mobil kurz zum stehen kommt, um dann, ohne auch nur den Blick zu heben, weiterfährt, seinen Blick weiterhin stumpf vor sich her auf den Asphalt heftend. Der Junge, vielleicht 18 jahre alt, wirkt so isoliert, so völlig in eine andere Welt versunken, dass wir nach dem ersten Schreck darüber spekulieren, ob seine Kamikazefahrt Absicht war . . .
Wir sind einfach nur verdammt froh und dankbar, dass wir nun weiterfahren dürfen, weiter Richtung Nord – West Norwegen entgegen . . .

Liebe Grüße von Caty und Knut . . .

826 thoughts on “Tage der Ruhe im Herzen Schwedens . . .”

  1. Ihr zwei wundervollen Weltenbummler, eure Zeilen zu lesen ist wunderbar wärmend und glücklich machend sie schmecken nach Blaubeerpfannekuchen und duften nach moosigen Waldgrund, nach kühlem Nass und farbigen Himmeln…sie sind umwoben von zarter Melancholie und tief empundenen Dank und Freude….. sie regen an Euch weit zu denken in einer ruhigeren Dimension in der so vieles abfällt was uns Stattmenschen täglich als Auseinandersetzung vor die Füße fällt und was so gut tut wenn es im lesen eurer Zeilen an Bedeutung verliert …… Platz macht der eigenen inneren Freude und verbundenheit mit Euch, dem lebendigen , DANKE EUCH !!! Ich denke zu Euch hin immer wieder …lasst gut auf Euch aufpassen von da Oben grüßt Eule die Treue und seit von ganzem Herzen feßt gedrückt…. eure Antje

  2. Liebe Cathy, lieber Knut!
    mit dem Herzen immer noch und weiterhin bei Euch!
    Schön und Vertrauen schaffend ist, dass ein Abschied allein ja ein neues Begegnen möglich macht – darauf freuen wir uns und beseitigt ein feines Drücken in der Herzgegend!
    Passt auf euch auf und folgt eurem Herzen wohin es euch geleiten möchte.
    Bin gerade dabei ein kleines Reisebilderbuch zu gestalten und da leben natürlich ganz viele gemeinsame Momente wieder auf.
    Seid einfach jetzt fest gedrückt
    Euer MIPA

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