Der Wind pfeift über das aufgewühlte Meer, die Wellen bersten an schroffen Monoliten, die tausendfach gezackt aus dem Wasser ragen, silbrig glitzernd dort, wo die Sonne auf die speckige, nasse Oberfläche trifft und zeitgleich wie dampfende Ungeheuer umwölkt und rauchend, ein blau, weiß, grau, schwarzes Lichtspiel, bedrohlich und faszinierend zugleich . . .
Bei Töre verlassen wir die Ostküste Schwedens und damit endgültig die liebliche Seite Schwedens, die uns zum letzten Mal an der Küste begegnet.
Hunderte Kilometer zieht sich die E10 durch Wälder, vorbei an Seen, Flüßen, Rentieren.
Den Polarkreis queren wir bei kaltem Regen – Caty in ihrer Funktion als DJ versucht die aufkeimenden leisen Zweifel, ob die Hauptrichtung Nord möglicherweise doch keine besonders clevere Entscheidung war, mit Cat Stevens zu kontern. „Morning has broken“, in der hier besungen Weise, lässt auf schöne Morgen hoffen.
Am frühen Nachmittag erreichen wir Kiruna. Schon von Ferne sehen wir den Berg, der seit über hundert Jahren Begehrlichkeiten weckt. Kiruna ist die nördlichste Gemeinde Schwedens und neben Mount Isa in Australien, die größte der Welt, obwohl hier nur rund 23.000 Menschen den langen Wintern trotzen.
Im Zentrum dieser nackten Stadt, die sich, würde man sie nach Deutschland verpflanzen, unbemerkt zwischen Gelsenkirchen und Essen ihren Platz finden könnte, steht der Eisenerzabbau. Bis zu 33 Mio. Roherz werden hier jährlich gefödert und mit der Bahn, die sich durch unwegsames Gebiet bis nach Narvik im Westen schlägelt, um dort auf Containerschiffen in alle Welt geliefert zu werden.
In 1,3km Tiefe wird immer weiter gegraben – das neue Rathaus Kirunas steht, noch eingerüstet, am äußersten Stadtrand. Hier wird das neue Kiruna entstehen, weil das „alte“ dem Abbau des Eisenerzes weichen muss.
Was macht der Kiruner gegen das Grau einer traurigen Stadt, um Ablenkung von den langen Winternächten und der Schweißarbeit zu finden?
Früher war es eine hübsche Kirche, die er sich auf einen Hügel nahe dem Zentrum hinpflanzte, wo Nordeuropäer den bis dahin zufriedenen samischen Rentierhirten das Glauben lehrten und wo die Lehre nicht ausreichte, fand der Glaube in Gesetztestexten Einzug, die beispielsweise regelten, dass jeder am Sonntag in die Kirche zu gehen habe. Für die Rentierhirten hieß das faktisch, dass Gesetz zu brechen, oder ihre Herden sich selbst zu überlassen, weil die Rentiere nicht gottesfürchtig genug waren, um an Sonntagen nur in der Nähe der sehr selten vorhandenen Kirchen zu weiden.
Heute baut der Kiruner ein Eishotel. Hier kann man für 200.-€ – 1000.-€ in einem -5 Grad kalten Hotelzimmer aus Eis nächtigen – ein entsprechender Schlafsack wird gestellt.
Wir lassen uns die Besichtigung des Hotels 60.-€ kosten und auch, wenn sich für uns nach dem Besuch noch immer nicht ganz erschließt, weshalb ein Gast in einem Land mit Wintern bis zu -30 Grad bereit ist, 1000.-€ für ein -5 Grad kaltes Zimmer auszugeben, so sind wir doch aufrichtig beeindruckt von dieser, durch Künstler gestalteten Eiswelt im Innern des Gebäudes. (Sobald es kalt genug ist, wird ein weiteres Eishotel komplett neu erbaut – das dauert ca.1 Monat und wird im Zuge der Klimaerwärmung von dem bangen Frage begleitet, ob die ganze Arbeit an zu warmen Tagen wieder dahinschmilzt).
In Kiruna ist es auch, wo wir wieder unserem gewohnten Versorgungspanikmuster verfallen. Schon am letzten Tag in Rumänien haben wir Hamsterkäufe für Skandinavien getätigt, nun, da wir wissen, dass Schweden kaum teurer ist als Deutschland, stocken wir die Vorräte für die Zeit in Norwegen auf
– Alkoholika sind davon ausgenommen, da die Einfuhr strengstens limitiert ist und wir von anderen Reisenden wenig amüsante Geschichten über Grenzkontrollen zu hören bekamen.
(In Schweden, Finnland und Norwegen bekommt man Alkoholisches nur in staatlichen Läden, die sich als Hochglanzboutiquen präsentieren, mit freundlichem Personal in Geschäftsuniform, das dem Kunden bei der Beratung gerne zur Seite steht. Dem Alkoholiker, der beratungsresistent und zielsicher auf das Regal zusteuert in dem er seinen präferierten Stoff vorfindet, mag das ein bisschen von der Tatsache ablenken, seiner Sucht Nahrung geben zu müssen.
Mein Stoff im „System Boulaget“ heißt „Premium Lager“ und ist in Schweden in einer goldenen Dose für 2.-€ erhältlich – ein sehr ordentliches Lagerbier mit 5,6% Umdrehung. Ein entsprechendes Bier in Norwegen ist mit 6.-€ schon eine ernstzunehmende Anschaffung)
Als wir die Grenze passieren, ist weit und breit keine Menschenseele zu sehen, in dem Grenzer Häuschen brennt kein Licht, nirgends ist ein Indiz für die aktuelle Präsenz einer menschlichen Seele zu entdecken, kein Fahrzeug, nichts.
Der unvermeidliche Konjunktiv „hätten wir doch bloß . . .“ (und vor allem der daraus resultierende Ärger über die verpassten Möglichkeiten . . .) fällt trotzdem moderat aus, da wir mit dem (lang herangereiften) festen Entschluss in Norwegen einreisen, etwas abzuspecken. Im Zentrum dieser Bemühungen steht der für mich etwas schmerzliche Verlust auf mein Feierabendbier.
Mit dem Grenzübertritt ändert sich augenfällig die Landschaft, es regnet und bei den kurzen Pinkelpausen, pfeift uns ein eisiger Wind um die Ohren.
Wir passieren das schmucklose Narvik, das im Wesentlichen davon lebt, das Eisenerz aus Kiruna in alle Welt zu verschiffen (stündlich werden hier 11.000t Material verladen!). Kühle Bauten, Shopping Malls, die E6 (die einzige durchgängige Nord / Süd Achse Norwegens), die sich lärmend durch den 15.000 Seelenort schlängelt. Der Charme bunter nordischer Holzhäuser fehlt beinahe gänzlich und erinnert, neben den vielen Kriegsdenkmälern die wir in ganz Norwegen häufig beschildert sehen, an die Nazis, die Narvik, nachdem sie es verloren geben mussten, ihrer Doktrin der verbrannten Erde folgend, in Schutt und Asche hinterließen.
Am Abend finden wir einen an sich reizvollen Wiesenplatz an einem Fluss in einem Tal, dass von Gebirgsketten eingefasst ist. Wir trinken unsere letzte Flasche Wein, die wir aus Sizilien bis nach Norwegen rüber retten konnten und starren die vor uns aufgetürmten schwarzen Felsmassive an, betrachten die Wolken in allen Graustufen, die die Bergspitzen einhüllen und kaum weniger massiv wirken, wie die Berge selbst. Wir starren und schweigen. Dann treffen sich unsere Blicke und wir müssen schallend Lachen. Wir lachen die tausende Kilometer aus uns heraus, die überzogenen Erwartungen an das Land der Superlative, die Bilder warmer Mittelmeerstrände an denen wir jetzt verweilen könnten, wir lachen über die Abspeckpläne ohne Wein und Bier, die uns nach dieser letzten Flasche Wein erwarten– wir lachen, bis uns die Tränen kommen (oder sind es die Regentropfen, die uns über die Wangen rollen?).
Wir sind angekommen in Norwegen (und in der Realität).
Wir beugen uns über unsere Karten, Reiseführer, bemühen „Weather Pro“ (unsere Wetter App) und beschließen eine maximal flexible Reiseplanung (die uns freistellt, jederzeit ans Mittelmeer zu fahren…) in Anlehnung an die Wetterprognosen, die durch die unterschiedlichen lokalen Wetterverhältnisse von der Großwetterlage erheblich abweichen können.
Zu diesem Zeitpunkt ahnen wir noch nicht, dass unsere hohen Erwartungen, die wir vor Anreise an das Land gestellt haben, noch übertroffen werden sollen.
Wir beschließen, der E6 bis Olderdalen nach Norden zu folgen, (laut Plan bei Regen) Tromsö zu besichtigen und uns über die Inseln Senja und Andöya zu den Lofoten vorzuarbeiten.
Tromsö (ein lebendiges Stätdchen mit bunten Holzhütten angrenzend an moderne Glasfasaden und der nördlichsten Universität Europas) erkunden wir (wie geplant) bei Regen und erfahren an der Rezeption eines Scandic Luxushotels von der fröhlichen blonden Angestellten auf entsprechende Nachfrage, dass das Wetter mutmaßlich so bleiben würde und dass das für diese Jahreszeit ganz normal sei. Sie hätten jetzt im Großen und Ganzen solange Regen, bis der Schnee käme, dabei lächelt sie mit offenem Blick und ohne jede Spur von Bedauern. In der Fußgängerzone sehen wir Trauben von Jugendlichen die munter durch den von kalten Windböen vor sich hergetriebenen Regen laufen, ihr Ziel: ein Open Air Spektakel, das an diesem Abend stattfindet. Keiner scheint auch nur eine Minute an den Gedanken zu verschwenden, ob die Veranstaltung aufgrund der Wetterlage vielleicht ausfallen könne. Die Stimmung ist kaum weniger ausgelassen wie bei uns an einem lauen Sommerabend. Ich kann nicht umhin, als staunend über das Phänomen „Gewöhnung“ nachzudenken.
Wir überbrücken die heftigsten Regenphasen im Museum Polaria, fliegen virtuell mit dem Hubschrauber staunend über Spitzbergen und beobachten quicklebendige Kugelrobben die unermüdlich, mal in Rückenlage, mal seitlich, mal bäuchlings und manchmal schraubend in allen Lagen zugleich, gutgelaunt durch ein Aquarium flitzen, das von allen Seiten Einblicke gewährt. Catys Entzücken und ihr damit einhergehend erhöhter Puls, schlägt im Gleichklang mit den Pirouetten der Robben.
Vor 3,5 Mrd. Jahren brodelnd und zischend aus dem weichen glühenden Erdinnern sich erhebend, erblickte das Archipel Lofoten als „Erstgeborene“ das Antlitz der Welt. Noch bevor 3 Mrd. Jahre später Norwegen an der Erdoberfläche auftauchte, sackten die Lofoten wieder in das glühende Erdinnere ab um daraus erneut emporzusteigen. Dieser mächtige Prozess gab der Erstgeborenen ihre substanzielle Form, doch das millionenfache ausdifferenzierte Gepräge ihrer heutigen Erscheinungsform, wurde durch das mahlende, knirschende Eis der letzten Eiszeit gebildet.
Wir „machen“ die Lofoten an einem Tag. Nur an diesem einen Sonntag scheint die Sonne, für den Rest der Woche prophezeit Weather Pro eine komplette Woche Regen bei Maximaltemperaturen von 12 Grad. Wir starten in Andenes, wo wir am Vorabend bei glühend roter Abendsonne mit der Fähre von der Insel Senja kommend, eingelaufen sind.
Unser Tempo kann spielend mit einer chinesischen Reisegruppe mithalten, mit dem nicht unerheblichen Unterschied, dass Caty ab und an etwas nervös im Reiseführer blättert von der nicht ganz unberechtigten Sorge angetrieben, wir könnten wichtige Stationen aus schierer Unwissenheit versäumen. Auf diesem Archipel, deren Inseln mittlerweile durch hohe Bogenbrücken und Untermeerestunnel miteinander verbunden sind, stürzen Eindrücke der Superlative im Minutentakt auf uns ein. Es mag übertrieben klingen, aber tatsächlich sind es vielleicht 50km der insgesamt rund 300km die wir an diesem Tag auf schmalen Landstraßen zurücklegen, die uns im Vergleich nur mäßig beeindrucken. Die verbleibenden 250km sind schlicht hinreißend. Blau- Graue Felsmassive, stehen in saftigem Grün, weichhügelige Buchten mit Sandstränden aus reinweißem Sand, die wie Halbmonde im silbrigen, manchmal eisgrauen oder stahlblauen Wasser liegen, ein goldenes Kornfeld vor einer bizarren Kulisse aus filigran gezackten Felsen in der Größe ausgewachsener Berge – die Landschaftsbilder wechseln laufend und es ist, als zeige die Natur auf diesem kleinen Stück Erde, was sie hervorzubringen in 3,5 Mrd. Jahren in der Lage war – als präsentiere sie hier ihr Meisterstück.
Selbst wenn wir an einem Ort verweilen und staunend eine neue Spielart aus Steinformationen betrachten, so ist dieser eine Ort durch das dramatische Spiel aus Licht und Schatten, dem unaufhörlichen Wandel des Wolkenbildes für das Auge in ständigem Wandeln begriffen, scheint in jedem Augenblick ein anderer zu sein. Fischerdörfer, deren Häuser wie rote Farbkleckse auf runden Granitfelsen ruhen, Dörfer, die zu zerfallen drohten, als der Kablejau weniger wurde und die Fischer ihrer Lebengrundlage beraubt waren.
Es war der Tourismus, der diesen Orten wieder zu neuem Leben verhalf und es ist heute der Tourismus, der sie zu überrollen droht. Vor diesem Hintergrund sind wir froh, dass die Hauptsaison vorüber ist und dankbar, dass wir an diesem Tag mit sonnigem Wetter beschenkt werden.
Als wir am Abend am äußersten Zipfel der Lofoten angelangen und neben einer Straßenkehre einen Platz mit Blick auf ein Fischerdorf, dramatischer Bergkulisse und Meer finden, sind wir glücklich und erschlagen von der Wucht der Eindrücke. Es wäre der Augenblick für ein kühles Feierabend – Ankommbierchen zur genussvollen Untermalung eines fetten Tages . . .
Caty ist wenigstens so sensibel, einen Tee auszuwählen, dessen Färbung einem Bier sehr nahe kommt! Mit dem Tee in der Hand schaue ich der untergehenden Sonne zu und bin glücklich!
Am nächsten Morgen peitscht der Regen gegen Eule, draußen ist alles grau verhangen und wir freuen uns, mit unserer Flexiplanung richtig agiert zu haben.
Umso größer die Freude, als es auf dem Weg nach Svolvaer aufklart und wir weitere Eindrücke bekommen, die nicht unmittelbar an norwegische Herbst – und Wintertage erinnern. (Schon die moderaten Stürme und Regenstunden, die wir hier erleben, lassen uns demütig und voller Respekt mit der Frage zurück, wie die Menschen hier die Winter schadlos(?) überdauern können . . .).
Von Svolvaer nehmen wir die Fähre zum Festland – über der aufgewühlten See strahlt die Sonne, während hinter uns die riesigen grauen Felsmassive der Lofoten im Regen verschwinden.
Wie immer gehen wir an Deck. Wir spüren, wie die Fähre in einer stetigen Bewegung nach oben gedrückt wird, kurz innehält, um dann in das Tal zwischen zwei Wellen abzusacken. Als der Bug mit einem Ruck aufschlägt, löst sich Spritzwasser, das sich als meterhoher Gischt Teppich über die Rehling legt und uns zur Begrüßung an Bord eine massive Dusche beschert. Nach dem ersten kurzen Schreck, müssen wir lachen. Als wir sehen, das ein Paar, das uns vom trockenen Innern des Schiffes aus beobachtet hat, Tränen lacht, gibt es kein Halten mehr – es ist, als würde sich die Lachsalven gegenseitig befeuern. . .
Trotzdem meiden wir diesen Teil des Decks und suchen ein etwas geschützteres Plätzchen.
Nachdem die Fähre Kurs auf den Zielhafen nimmt, fahren wir quer zu den Meterhohen Wellen – die teilweise bedrohliche wirkende Neigung der Fähre bereitet uns kaum Sorge – es ist davon auszugehen, dass das unbekümmert routiniert wirkende Personal an Bord schon andere Stürme mit diesem Kahn bewältigt hat – die Restsorge gilt Eule, weil ich mir nicht so sicher bin, ob die Schräglage der Fähre sie nicht einfach zum Kippen bringt.
In Skutvika werden wir von einem knallfarbenen Regenbogen in Empfang genommen – unsere Wetter Ap abgestimmte Reiseplanung sieht nun vor, ohne Abstecher die 900km nach Trondheim zu fahren, wo wir für den übernächsten Tag wieder Sonne erwarten dürfen.
Mit Glück finden wir schon bei Dunkelheit nahe der E6 einen ruhigen Platz mit Seeblick – auf der alten Straße, die von einem Tunnel abgelöst wurde. Als wir bei einer Zigarette in den Nachthimmel schauen, stellt Caty fest: „schau Mal da oben, sieht ein bisschen aus wie Polarlicht“.
Der Verlauf der wolkigen hellen Lichtstreifen am sonst dunklen Himmel, erinnert tatsächlich seiner Form nach an die Bilder, die einem an jedem Postkartenständer begegnen (und die immer wie eine unübersehbare Aufforderung darauf aufmerksam machen, dass man Polarlichter wenigstens einmal im Leben gesehen haben m u s s). Und plötzlich färben sich die Streifen grün, verändern unaufhörlich ihre Form und Farbintensität und es besteht kein Zweifel mehr: was wir hier sehen, i s t Polarlicht, auch wenn die Färbung eher blass ist. Schon in diesem Stadion der Erscheinung, sind wir von dem Schauspiel fasziniert, das sich wenige Minuten über uns am Himmel zeigt.
Auf den verbleibenden 650km bis Trondheim ist es wieder Caty, die eine Entdeckung macht – der vor Aufregung halb erstickte Satz „ELCHE!“ dringt mit bestechender Klarheit in mein Bewusstsein nebst den Aktionen, die Caty nun aus ihrer Sicht ganz folgerichtig von mir erwartet. Im Grunde ist die (unausgesprochene, weil selbstverständliche) Forderung, dass unser Mobil just auf Höhe der Elche zum Stillstand kommen muss. Im Rückspiegel die Lichter eines 40 tonners, von vorne ebenfalls ein LKW von erhabener Größe – eine starke Bremsung würde der LKW hinter mir zwar noch rechtzeitig erkennen, müsste dann aber wohl an mir vorbeifahren und zwar geschätzt genau dann, wenn der andere LKW von vorne auf meiner Höhe wäre, mit den entsprechenden Folgen – aber das sind unwesentliche Details im Anblick zweier Elche, die wir gerade passieren . . .
Wir drehen noch einmal um, sie schauen uns ein letztes Mal an, bevor sie im Wald verschwinden . . .
Bei strahlendem Sonnenschein sitzen wir im modernen Nord Tindesenter von Andalsnes, der letzten Station, bevor wir uns auf die abenteuerliche Passtrasse des Trollstigfoten begeben . . .
Liebe Grüße von hier, Caty und Knut
P.S.:
Da wir auf unserer Reise nichts vermissen, außer unserer Freunde, haben wir über Zuwachs nachgedacht. Ihr könnt euch anmelden und mit uns einige Tage mitreisen, so die Idee . . .
Anmeldungen ab jetzt … 😉
Ihr Lieben. Heute ist also Olaf bei uns angekommen und er wird dafür sorgen ,dass die Nachricht auch wiklich bei Euch ankommt. Euer bloc 12 ist ja schon von den Photos her aufregend, wie schön muss das erst in Natura sein. Habt Ihr denn auch etwas von der sagenhaften Herbstfärbung in Norwegen gesehen? Nun werdet Ihr Norwegen,dieses Zauberland, bald verlassen und ich bin gespannt was Ihr Euch für die letzten Wochen noch vornehmt. Ich wünsche Euch vor allem nochmals Sonne und etwas Wärme nach Euren eisigen Erfahrungen. Ich würde mich jedenfalls nicht für 1000 Euro ins Eishotel begeben. Immer wieder tauchen Bilder von unserer Schwedentour auf und ich freue mich schon auf unseren gemeinsamen Bilderaustausch wenn Ihr zurück seid.Eure Norwegenfotos lassen ahnen was Ihr alles bewundern konntet. Alles Gute Euch für die nächste Etappe. In Gedanken bin ich dabei. Seid umärmelt von eurer Mutt
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