Transitreise in den Wohlstand . . .

Mit jedem Land das wir in Richtung Norden bereisen, scheint der Reichtum zuzunehmen, die Eselkarren verschwinden aus dem Straßenbild und machen hochglanzpolierten Fahrzeugen Platz, anstelle kleiner Mixta Markets Shopping Malls von der Größe eines Dorfes, mit überfüllten Parkplätzen . . .

Ungarn durchfahren wir in wenigen Stunden, weite Ebenen, Felder die erst am Schnittpunkt mit dem Himmel zu enden scheinen, säumen das schnurgerade Band der Straße, ehemalige Kolchosen, die nun irgendwelchen Investoren gehören, die das Land vermutlich nie gesehen haben und für die diese Felder ein Zahlenspiel sind, dass Gewinn nicht in erster Linie durch Bewirtschaftung erzielt, sondern durch rasant steigende Bodenpreise . . .
Die Slowakei präsentiert sich in den wenigen Stunden Fahrt mit proper ausgebauten Straßen, lieblichen Hügeln, kleinen Feldern und hinterlässt, als wir uns dem Tatra Gebirge nähern den Eindruck, als bereisten wir die kleine Schwester der Schweiz.

In Polen machen wir einen Zwischenstop von zwei Tagen in Bukowina Tatrarska in Anbindung an ein Restaurant, dass uns schon bei einem Besuch 2014 so nachhaltig überzeugt hat, dass wir es nun erneut für die freien Tage zu unserer Kantine auserkoren haben.

Anfangs reden wir noch nicht darüber, halten es für zufällige Momentaufnahmen, aber später auf der Reise durch Polen wird es immer offenbarer, spürbarer und verliert zunehmend den Verdacht der Zufälligkeit: Die Stimmung im Land ist eine andere geworden als auf unserer letzten Reise, die freundlichen Menschen von einst, wirken unnahbar und isoliert, als habe sich auf das quirlig im Aufbruch befindliche Land mit seinen hoffnungsfrohen Menschen von 2014 ein Schleier gelegt, als sei die Offenheit einer unerquicklichen Beschäftigung mit sich selbst gewichen. Junge tätowierte Männer, mit hochgezüchtetem Muskelfleisch, dicken Nacken und seitlich ausrasierter Tellerhaarstoppelfrisur sind so häufig anzutreffen, dass sie das Bild in den wenigen Städten und Dörfern, die wir sehen,  prägen – sie scheinen sich selbst genug, Männer, die nun eine Stimme haben, die nun plötzlich gebraucht werden (auch wenn es sich dabei um ein gefühltes Gebrauchtsein ohne reale Verbesserung handeln könnte). Und es gibt diese anderen Gesichter mit feinen Zügen und wachen Augen, deren Nachinnengekehrtsein schamhaft wirkt.
Es sind die Gedanken, das „Wissen“, das unsere Wahrnehmung prägt und ich vermag nicht zu sagen, ob das, was wir da sehen und spüren Frucht unserer durch Medienberichte geprägten Phantasie ist oder stimmige Beobachtung – doch unabhängig voneinander spüren wir diese Veränderung, die uns etwas traurig stimmt.
Gleichzeitig ist der Wandel seit 2014 ebenso offensichtlich in Hinblick auf die Wohlständigkeit. Die Zeiten, in denen die alten Autos Deutschlands auf Polens Straßen wieder auftauchten, scheint weitgehend vorüber, das Bild auf der top ausgebauten, neuen Autobahn Krakau, Warschau, Danzig ist jedenfalls ein anderes und würde den Herren aus den Vorstandsetagen von BMW, Mercedes und VW möglicherweise die ein oder andere Freudenträne entlocken, wären sie hier in einem Auto unterwegs. Der Fachmann für Computerprobleme, mit dem wir im Restaurant im Tatragebirge dadurch ins Gespräch kommen, weil sein auffällig aufgewecktes Kind immer wieder an unseren Tisch kommt, erzählt uns, dass er sich Urlaub in dieser Gegend bei einem Gehalt von umgerechnet
1500.-€/Monat kaum leisten könne und verweist damit darauf, dass das Gefälle im Verdienst zu Deutschland geblieben ist. Dieses Gespräch zeigt aber auch, dass Polen längst nicht mehr die billige Werkbank Europas ist.
In Torun und Danzig erleben wir wie schon 2014 die Schönheit polnischer Städte.


Es ist mein erster Besuch in Torun und mein fünfter in Danzig – beide Städte scheinen nach vielen Jahrzehnten des Dahindämmerns eine neue Blütezeit zu erfahren und auch, wenn die einmaligen Häuser und Fassaden der Innenstädte zu neuem Glanz erwacht sind ist trotz dieser augenscheinlichen Blüte nicht immer klar, ob dieser Wandel nicht auch seine Schatten wirft. Der Besucherandrang ist hoch und ich frage mich, wann dieser Andrang das Bild dieser Städte kippen lässt, sie zu Freilichtmuseen mutieren lässt in der die ursprünglichen Einwohner nur noch Platz in Form von Servicekräften finden, so, wie es beispielsweise in Städten wie Dubrovnik oder Venedig heute schon zu besichtigen ist.

Noch haben sie ihren eigenen Charme, verkraften den Andrang, weil sich die Narben der jüngeren Geschichte, der Weltkriege, des „Kommunismus“ noch nicht gänzlich hinter dem neuen Schick verstecken können, der manchmal Disney artigen Charakter bekommt, wenn beispielsweise in Danzig kleine Miet – Motorboote im Look eines VW Beatle , mal als Taxi – Beatle, Feuerwehr – Beatle, oder Polizei – Beatle den Kanal vor dem Speicherturm mit in grellroten Schwimmwesten bewährten Touristen in Zehnerschaften den Blick verstellen . . .
Gydigne, die alte (und neue) Hafenstadt oberhalb Danzigs bleibt von derlei Entwicklungen völlig unbeleckt – hier rattert der Verkehr klappernd über eine marodierende Betonbrücke, die sich vielspurig über den Hafen spannt, gesäumt von Meterhohen Containerkrähnen. Hier, auf einem Parkplatz in Nachbarschaft zu den ständig kommenden und fahrenden Sattelschleppern, finden wir einen Platz mit Industrieromantik vom Feinsten und schlafen bestens.

Check Inn ist um 08:00Uhr, Abfahrt um 09:00 Uhr. Die schwedische Reederei Stenaline macht vor, was bei keiner der Fahrten unter italienischer Flagge je gelungen ist: Alle fahren Vorwärts auf zwei Ebenen gleichzeitig ein, der Weg bis zum Schiff wird von ca. 5 Einweisern begleitet, die so platziert sind, das man an allen Schnittstellen völlig entspannt die nötige Information zur Weiterfahrt bekommt. (In Italien, wo teilweise rückwärts eingefahren werden musste und im Schiff gewendet wurde, haben auf dem Weg zum Schiff Trauben von Einweisern gestanden, die mit lauten Stimmen und ausladender Gestik widersprüchliche Signale an den Fahrgast gegeben haben, so dass mancher völlig Konfus stehen geblieben ist, um dann Schimpftiraden und erneutes Fuchteln der vielen Hände mit gleichem Ergebnis über sich ergehen zu lassen . . .)
Um 09:00 legt das Schiff ab, fährt durch das Hafengebiet mit seinen neuen und alten Kränen, vorbei an zu Bergen aufgetürmter Kohle, einer Werft, die Luxusjachten herstellt und vorbei an dem Tui Kreutzer „Mein Schiff“ der die Ahnung, Danzig könnte künftig ein Dubrovnik werden, unterstreicht.

Dann erreichen wir die offene See.
Das Schiff ist sauber, alles funktioniert – um 16:00Uhr gibt es in der Manhattan Bar, in der ich ein Smörbröd zu mir genommen habe und in der wir an einem Tisch mit dunkelorangenem Kunstledersofa unsere Basis eingerichtet haben, Bingo für alle, die wollen – und es wollen viele. Moderiert wird das Ganze von einem Polen, der gegen die träge Zurückhaltung der Blondschöpfe stimmlich anzugehen versucht und einer schwedisch sprechenden jungen Dame mit untypisch braunem Haar, die sich bei ihrer Aufgabe derartig unwohl zu fühlen scheint, dass sie eher ein Ausrufezeichen der trögen Nachmittagsstimmung abgibt, als ein Kontrapunkt. Während das Hightech Rednerpult aufgeregt blinkt, verlesen die beiden monoton Zahlen, auf die an den Tischen außer der konzentrierten Aufmerksamkeit  keine Reaktion spürbar ist. Ich stelle mir vor, wie dieselbe Szene auf der Überfahrt nach Sizilien wohl ausgesehen hätte und lache etwas zu laut in die konzentrierte Stille hinein . . .
Es gibt drei Gewinner, die Toblerone, Chips und einen Weißwein erhalten. Dann erscheint der Mann auf der kleinen Bühne, der für das Entertainement an Bord zuständig ist und vermutlich auf honorarbasis angeheuert wurde. Er, ein steifer Solist mit Krawatte, ist mit hightech Keybord, Gitarre und Mikro ausgerüstet – er singt das Beste aus den 80igern und 90igern, ohne dabei zu vergessen, dass es auch eine erkleckliche Anzahl an Alten gibt, die sich an seinen Schlagern erfreuen – und obwohl die Lieder (vielen sind nach einiger Zeit die Ähnlichkeit zum Original dann doch anzumerken) aus allen Genres entstammen, klingen sie alle weitgehend gleich und während ich mich noch frage, wie das eigentlich möglich ist, ertönt die nach dem obligatorischen Gong, der auf Flughäfen, Schiffen, Warteräumen immer gleichklingt (warum?), die Ansage, das die Kabinen nun zu räumen seien und das die Ankunft in 60Min. erfolgen würde . . .
Als wir das Schiff verlassen, gleiten wir in die ersten aufgeschlagenen Seiten der Märchenwelt Bullerbü.

Bei seidenem orange – rötlichen Abendlicht rollen wir über das ebene Schwarz frisch geteerter Straßen, vorbei an goldenen Weizenfeldern, saftig grünen Weiden, milden Hügeln, auf der Suche nach einem Platz für die Nacht. Der späten Stunde geschuldet, fahren wir einen Campingplatz an: im weichen, stoppelkurzhaargeschnittenem Rasen geschmeidiger Hügel, angeschmiegt an die leichtwellige, abendlich beschienene Ostsee der Campingplatz mit hochglanzpolierten Dreiachser Wohnmobilen, denen braungebrannte Zeitgenossen mit Flanellhosen entsteigen, ihren weißen Pudel an der rosa Leine mitführend. ihn dann auf einen Elektro Caddy hieven, um noch eine Partie Golf zu spielen . . .
Es gelingt uns an diesem Abend noch einen Platz fern aller Wohnmobile zu finden…

Am nächsten Morgen, nach Abfahrt, bevor es uns gelingt, in die Bundesstrasse nach Karlskrona einzubiegen, fahren 8 Wohnmobile in Reihe vor uns vorbei und was sich da angedeutet hat, ist bis heute erhalten geblieben. Hier, im Land der Dreiachswohnmobile dürfen wir uns mit Eule entspannt als Berliner Freaks fühlen, während wir in Südosteuropa nicht selten das Empfinden hatten, mit einer Villa durchs Dorf zu fahren.
Je nach Kontext ist Eule, unser treues Mobil, freakiges Alteisen oder Luxusvilla – aber immer ein Zuhause.
Morgen früh, werden wir auf der Frühstücksfensterseite die Wellen der Ostsee heranrollen sehen, die jetzt in meinen Ohren rauschen, auf der Küchenseite die aufgebockten Fischerboote in Erwartung einer frischen Lackierung betrachten, während wir versuchen, die Scheiben der sizilianischen Salami, die uns noch verblieben ist, möglichst dünn zu schneiden, weil es besser schmeckt.
Das Brot wird aus einer Bäckerei in Lund stammen, die ein Blumensträußchen im feinen Duft des Frischgebackenem aufgestellt hat und in der Zahlen nur mit Karte möglich ist…
Wir sind angekommen in Schweden, einer anderen, schönen, Bilderbuchwelt in der sich andere Fragen stellen . . .
Die Menschen hier haben sehr vieles richtig gemacht, das Land, soweit wir es bisher bereist haben ist im Geiste des Respekts gegenüber der Natur liebevoll gestaltet,  es gibt das „Jedermannsrecht“ das auch uns erlaubt, an vielen Stellen im Land zu stehen, wodurch andere Fragen entstehen, wie beispielweise derjenigen, wohin mit den Abertausenden weißen Wohnklötzen, die durchs satte Land fahren und zu denen wir hier gehören? Glücklicherweise scheinen sich die meisten von ihnen auf Plätzen wohlzufühlen, auf denen sie so dicht an dicht stehen, dass noch nicht einmal ihre Markise Platz zur vollen Entfaltung hätte . . .
Ich verweise auf solche Eindrücke, während wir durch ein Land fahren, in dem wir wunderschöne Plätze gefunden haben, Catys Geburtstag mit einer fetten Grillage und Girladenschmuck im innern des Mobils nahe eines Sees gefeiert haben…

und jeden Morgen erwachen (nach einem tiefen Schlaf, der deshalb so ruhig ist, weil die Temperaturen stimmen und in keinem Augenblick der Gedanke an Bedrohung aufkommt) mit Blick auf das Meer, gepflegte Landschaften, oder eben einen idyllischen Fischerhafen.


Nun sind wir bei Hans, Nana und Fritz eingetroffen und erfreuen uns wunderbarer Stunden mit besten Freunden . . .

 

 

25.008 thoughts on “Transitreise in den Wohlstand . . .”

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