Schweden, aus dem Land der roten Häuser und blonden Schönen…

Wenn innerhalb von 10 Minuten mindestens 5 blonde, gut durchtrainierte Menschen mit broncefarbener Haut an Dir vorbei mehr rennen als joggen, Du mittlerweile alles mit Karte zahlst, die Hälfte der Autos Volvo heißen und die gefühlte andere Hälfte aus Wohnmobilen besteht, Du gerade an einem See die herrliche Stille und die satten Farben der tiefstehenden Abendsonne genießt, befindest Du Dich mit an Sicherheit grenzender Wahrscheinlichkeit in Schweden . . .

 

Es dauert, bis wir den schmalen Weg in Kivik finden, gesäumt von Jahrhunderte alten Bäumen, die den Weg zu den goldenen Kornfeldern hin abgrenzen. Es bleibt, bis wir unser Ziel erreicht haben völlig unklar, ob wir zwischen den Bäumen hindurchpassen – wir passen und treffen Hans, Nana und Fritzlinger (den schwedenblonden Kleinlinger oder schlicht, mit bürgerlichem Namen „Fritz“).

Das Areal, in dem Hans und Nana für eine Woche ein kleines Haus bezogen haben,  ein Haus, mit dem Eule ohne Abstriche mithalten kann, umfasst mehrere alte Gebäude, in denen in manchen Räumen amtliche Renovierungsarbeiten von statten gehen, in anderen sich das Leben einer Kommune abspielt, wenngleich diese Kommune im Grunde eine Familie ist.  Und jeder in dieser Familie hat die Welt bereist, ohne Geld, sich durchjobbend und im Vertrauen aufs Leben.
Und trotzdem scheint die Suche nach dem Glück in ländlichem Gebiet für sie wichtig zu sein.
Es sind glückliche Tage, die wir hier verbringen – mit Ausflügen, edlem Grillgut vom Lamm und vertrauten Gesprächen mit Blick in die glimmende Glut eines langsam ermüdenden Feuers.
Und es sind Tage, die unsere Hochachtung für jeden vertiefen, der sich dieser komplexen Aufgabe der Elternschaft verantwortungsvoll widmet!

Jetzt sind wir in Örebro auf einem Parkplatz am Ortsrand, direkt an einem kleinen Stadt See.
(Wir besuchen die Stadt ohne König – der König wäre Michael , einer der ältesten Yogaschüler Catys und vertrauter Familienfreund – er wird erst in zehn Tagen hier einziehen)
Gerade habe ich begonnen, den Blog zu schreiben, da fährt ein weiterer Camper auf den Parkplatz, parkt (ohne Not) neben uns, gerade so weit weg, dass die biologisch angelegte Individualdistanz nicht verletzt wird. Ein Paar entsteigt dem Ducato Globescout und nimmt alsbald in hessischem Dialekt Kontakt zu uns auf – vor zwei Tagen sind sie, so erfahren wir, mit ihrem Mobil in einem Straßengraben gelandet, wo sie eine Birke vor dem Umkippen gerettet hat. Obwohl die Spuren am Mobil nicht wegzudiskutieren sind, haben sie Glück gehabt.
Wenig später taucht eine bulgarische Familie auf – erst der Sohn, der halbherzig im Mülleimer nach leeren Flaschen sucht, dann der Vater, der sich zögerlich nähert und davon berichtet, das es kaum möglich sei, in Bulgarien Arbeit zu bekommen. Dann kommt seine Frau, die sich, während Caty telefoniert, ungefragt an unseren Tisch setzt. Sie erzählt mir, soweit ich es verstehen kann von Arztkosten, die sie nicht bezahlen kann, von ihrem Sohn, der Magenprobleme hat, dass sie nun einen Arzt in Schweden besuchen müssten, aber kein Geld hätten, weil das für’s tanken draufgegangen sei. Was klar ist – sie will Geld und ich gebe ihr etwas, umgerechnet 30.-€, dann bedankt sie sich herzlich und zieht ab.
Caty ist sauer, sie hält das für ein gut einstudiertes Schauspiel und hat die Befürchtung, dass die Spende ihnen deutlich machen könnte, dass es bei uns noch mehr zu holen gäbe, nötigenfalls mit anderen Mitteln. Vielleicht hat sie Recht.
Ich denke, die Not ist glaubwürdig, selbst dann, wenn dieser Akt nur ein erprobtes Schaustück zum Zwecke des Gelderwerbs wäre. Wie es wirklich ist, wissen wir beide nicht.
Kurz darauf taucht unser hessischer Nachbar wieder auf, lädt uns zu einem Schwätzchen in seinem Globescout ein, was wir für heute ablehnen, weil wir heute hier stehen und nicht weitergefahren sind, um zu schreiben, bevor wir morgen meine Eltern treffen . . .
Bevor wir uns eine gute Nacht wünschen erzählt uns der fröhliche Hesse noch von den Nachrichten, die er gerade gesehen hat (seine Sat Schüssel hat sich nach Ankunft automatisch eingestellt) – Trump und Kim Jong – zwei Psychopaten mit der Befehlsgewalt über Atomwaffen mögen sich nicht . . .
Ich versuche, zurückzufinden, den vergangenen Tagen ein Gesicht zu geben und denke mich wieder zurück nach Kivik, der Stadt der Äpfel (es gibt dort mehr als 70 Sorten).
Das Ende in Kivik; kurz bevor wir abreisen, klemme ich meinen Thermobecher der Marke Primus, gefüllt mit siedeheißem Kaffe unter die Achsel um noch eine gemeinsame Abschiedszigarette bei einem frischen Kaffee zu zelebrieren. Der Stummel, den ich noch im Mundwinkel hatte, fällt zu Boden und um unseren Nimbus des naturfreundlichen, sauberen Campers zu bewahren, bücke ich mich, um die Zigarette aus dem Gras aufzuheben, ohne daran zu denken, das meinem Primus seit einigen Wochen, verursacht durch eine überambitionierte Putzaktion, der rote Verschlussknopf in der Mitte des Deckels abhandengekommen ist. Als ich mich bücke, ergießt sich ein dichter Strahl noch dampfenden Kaffees über mein Handgelenk, ein Umstand mit Folgen, die uns u.A. einen Eindruck aus der Innenansicht des schwedischen Gesundheitssystems erlaubt.

Am ersten Tag versuche ich den brennenden, bobonroten Arm zu ignorieren. Am nächsten Morgen finde ich bedenkliche Blasen vor und die Hautpartien, die zuvor trotz regnerisch grauem Abendblicht blendend hellrot erschienen, sind jetzt von einer dunkelvioletten Krause umhüllt . . .
Wir beschließen, einen Arzt aufzusuchen – in 20 km Entfernung, Caty fährt das erste Mal mit Eule uns dorthin, vorbei an gelben und roten Holzhäusern die in den goldenen Feldern stehen, so idyllisch, das der Gedanke auftaucht, in dieser Region der Welt könne einfach gar nichts passieren und Ergo auch Ärzte völlig überflüssig wären – hier also werden wir Gäste im Vardcentrum von Rottne. Vardcentren sind die medizinischen Versorgungsstationen im ländlichen Raum, in denen alles zusammen gelegt ist: Altersheim, Apotheke, Akutfälle. Erst begrüßt uns die freundliche Dame von der Rezeption, die angrenzend an das geschmackvoll eingerichtete Wartezimmer mit Zeitschriften für jedermanns Geschmack hinter einer Glasscheibe ihren Arbeitsplatz belegt. Bevor der Arzt konsultiert wird, nimmt eine Krankenschwester den Patienten in Augenschein, die mit ihrer Praxiserworbenen Erfahrung darüber befindet, ob ein Arzt überhaupt notwendig ist. Meine Krankenschwester ist Souverän und alle Aussagen über den Zustand meines Blasenbewerten Gelenks und dessen mutmaßlicher Entwicklung trifft genau so ein. Die Behandlung/Beratung schlägt mit 10.-€ zu buche, wofür ich alles erfahre, was ich wissen muss.
Wie Vieles machen die Schweden auch das sehr gut . . .
Entlang des Göteburg – Stockholmkanals, der in seinem Verlauf 97 Höhenmeter überwindet fahren wir Richtung Stockholm.

Der erste Eindruck, nachdem wir an einem Samstag Morgen der Tunnelbana (U-Bahn) entsteigen, wird geprägt von aneinandergereihten 50iger Jahre Blöcken, deren graue Hässlichkeit nicht Gutes erahnen lässt. Es ist das „neue“ Zentrum der Stadt, dass in den 50iger Jahre nach den idealen der damaligen Zeit (breite Strassen, hohe Häuser, weite Plätze, alles praktisch, clean und seelenlos) so konsequent umgesetzt wurde, wie kaum an einem anderen Ort in Europa. Später stellen wir fest, dass dieses Viertel von herrschaftlichen Häusern aus der Gründerzeit umgeben ist und die Stadt mit einer Fülle von wunderschönen alten Häusern gesegnet ist.

Uns zuliebe hat Stockholm am Tag unseres Erscheinens eine Parade namens Stockholm Pride organisiert, um uns die Vielfalt der Stadt stolz zu präsentieren 😉
Der Umzug beginnt pünktlich um 13:00 Uhr – hier defiliert alles an uns vorbei, was die Phantasie zu kreieren vermag, angeführt von einem Trüppchen das auf Bannern proklamiert, sie würden die Stimme erheben für all Jene, die es nicht können. Ein Mann mit Zellulite durchfurchten, nacktem Hängearsch, gestützt nur von einem Lederband in der Arschritze läuft mit wiegender Hüfte vorbei, barbusige junge Mädels mit gekreuztem Hansaplast über den Nippeln, ahnungslos und glühend für die Gerechtigkeit a la Pussyright, Feuerwehrmänner und tanzende Polizisten, abkommandiert für dieses Event und bejubelt vom Volk hinterm Flatterband, dann ein Scania Truck mit Trailer, mit dem Walla stolz auf sein Haarspray ist, später der Flughafen Shuttledienst für seinen Service und kurz bevor der SM Club Stockholm in Lack, Leder und mit fahlen neurotischen Gesichtern seinen Auftritt hat, ein kleines buntes Häuflein unter einer Google Flagge.

Eine grellpinke Dickbraut auf einer überforderten Vespa bildet den aufmerksam heischenden Zwischenpart zwischen einem Freiheitsänger unter Israelischer Flagge und einem Trupp Amerikanischer Anhänger der Demokraten – ihr Defilee wird mit Schweigen bedacht – selbst die evangelische Kirche, die dem norwegischen Schwulenchor in rosa Miniröcken folgt, demonstriert Stockholms Stolz auf Geschlechtervarianten, die in Kürzeln auf vielen Flaggen aufgepinselt sind, Geschlechtervarianten, von denen ich gar nicht wusste, dass es sie gibt.
Drei Stunden betrachten wir das Spektakel. Ich erfreue mich an dem Gedanken, dass Jeder in einer möglichen Zukunft sich in seiner Eigenart zeigen darf und ohne verlacht oder ausgeschlossen zu werden, dazu stehen darf. Dass auch Konzerne hier defilieren zeigt, wie es der Kapitalismus vermag, ursprünglich beseelten Bewegungen mit ehrlichem Anliegen ihre Symbole zu klauen und aus ihnen Mode und Konsum zu kreieren. Wie die löchrigen Jeans der Punks, für die heute neureiche Juppigirls 150.-€ bereit sind zu zahlen, wie die Tatoos der Rocker, die mittlerweile Stilmittel einer ganzen Generation zu sein scheinen . . .

Wieder Örebro, unser Parkplatz. Die bulgarische Familie ist wieder zu unserem Mobil gekommen – ich bemerke es an einem seltsamen Geräusch auf der Windschutzscheibe. Ich brauche eine Weile, bis ich das Geräusch als Gummilippe eines Scheibenreinigungssets identifiziere, weitere Augenblicke verstreichen, bis ich kapiere, das der Bulgare begonnen hat, unsere Scheiben zu putzen.
Er gibt mir zu verstehen, dass diese Aktion als Dankeschön meiner Spende zu werten sei, was ihn allerdings nicht davon abhält, nach Beendigung seiner geübten Scheibenputzaktion noch einmal durchblicken zu lassen, dass sie Geld wirklich nötig hätten. Ich verweise auf die Spende vom Vorabend und er lenkt sofort ein und verlässt uns, nicht ohne sich zu bedanken. . .
Unsere Nachbarn aus Hessen entpuppen sich als sehr nette humorvolle Zeitgenossen mit denen wir immer wieder ins Gespräch kommen.
Mein Plan in Örebro in Ruhe an dem Blog zu schreiben ist zwar nicht gänzlich gescheitert, aber eben auch nicht voll umfänglich aufgegangen . . .
Meine Eltern sind bereits am vereinbarten Ort eingetroffen, uns fehlen noch 180km, die wir jetzt hurtig in Angriff nehmen . . .
Dann geht es in den hohen Norden und es ist zu vermuten, dass es ausreichend regnerische Tage in völliger Abgeschiedenheit geben wird, wo ich zwischen Elchen, Moos und Waldbeeren weiter schreiben kann . . .

Liebe Grüße aus Nord von Caty und Knut . . .

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

7.025 thoughts on “Schweden, aus dem Land der roten Häuser und blonden Schönen…”

  2. Ach ja, schön war die zeit mit Euch in Kiwi. Wir sind schon längst wieder im Alltag angekommen und Ihr stecht mit Eule weiter in See Richtung Norden. Hoch lebe das Abenteuer!
    Küsse, Hans, Nana und Fritz.

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  607. About 70 people in their 20s chartered a plane from Austin, Texas, to Mexico for spring break two weeks ago. They went against the advice of White House officials who asked that people