von Bulgarien kommend, wirkt Rumänien beinahe aufgeräumt und wohlständig.
Wir wissen noch nicht, dass dieser Eindruck keineswegs auf eine homogene Realität verweist – oft liegen nur wenige Kilometer zwischen ärmlichsten Dörfern und schmuck herausgeputzten Städtchen, hochglanzpolierte SUV‘s überholen auf schlaglochbewährten Straßen mit 120km/h kleine Eselkarren . . .
4,5 Individuen reisen durch Rumänien.
Es ist humanzentriertes Denken, hier Professor Spatz mit 0,5 als halbes Individuum aufzuführen und ausschließlich der vermeintlichen Tatsache geschuldet, er, der kleine weißbepelzte stolz dreinblickende Hund habe keine Stimme in dem komplexen Findungsprozess, der zwangsläufig viele der täglich zu treffenden Entscheidungen begleitet. Wie sich bald herausstellen soll, ist es sachlich falsch anzunehmen, Prof. Dr. Spatz beeinflusse die Abläufe der Reise im Vergleich zu der Stimme, die jeder hat, nur zur Hälfte. Wenn er an einer Straßenecke den Blocker reinhaut, weil er gedankenverloren einer sexy Hundedame nachschnuppert (von denen es in Rumänien eine erkleckliche Anzahl gibt), oder er beschließt, im Schatten zu verweilen und dort, allen wohlmeinenden Aufforderungen weiterzugehen mit erstaunlich konsequenten Verharrungsvermögen trotzt, oder auch, wenn er gegen Hundemännchen jedweder Couleur sein Revier verteidigt, das im Zweifel das komplette Territorium umfasst, in dem wir uns bewegen zuzüglich der uns umgebenden Fläche in einem Umkreis von ca. 100 m², spätestens dann wird deutlich, dass es schlicht einfältig wäre seiner Stimmkraft nur das halbe Gewicht zuzubilligen.
Zudem ist manche Veränderung im Ablauf der Reise der Tatsache geschuldet, dass an einigen Orten Hunden der Zutritt verwehrt bleibt.
Morgens ist es Dr. Spatz, der jeden einzelnen von uns schwanzwedelnd im Überschwang seiner Seelenwärme begrüßt und dessen quicklebendige Freude, die sich durch ein Rädchen Salami in Sekundenschnelle auf ein vielfaches potenziert, auf uns alle überträgt. Seine (ungewollte) Komik, seine schwanzwedelnde Ausgleichsarbeit zwischen allen Parteien gibt seiner Stimme weit mehr Gewicht, als die wenigen Einschränkungen und macht ihn zu einem Mitreisenden, der zu der Überlegung anregt, ob anstelle der 0,5 eine Stimmgewichtung von 1,5 nicht angemessener wäre . . .
In Rumänien treffen wir auf ein Bedingungsfeld vieler Extreme – das Donaudelta verlassen wir nach einer frühmorgendlichen Bootstour bei sengender Hitze (es ist 41 Grad Celsius),
der leichte Wind der ab und an aufkommt bringt nicht die erhoffte, übliche kleine Linderung – er weht über unsere verschwitzten Körper wie sengend heißer Atem, treibt noch mehr Feuchtigkeit aus unseren Körpern, in die wir in kurzen Abständen das im Kühlschrank lauwarm gewordene Wasser hineinschütten – erst in den Bergen, nahe graubrodelnder Schlammvulkane wird es ein wenig kühler, was das sirrende Heer kleiner Stechmücken auf den Plan ruft.
Der Nächste Tag bringt satten Regen, die Hitze schlägt jäh um in empfindliche Kälte, die in den Höhen der Karpaten, begleitet von einem eisigen Wind, das Thermometer auf empfindliche 7 Grad sinken lässt. Neben schwankenden Temperaturen, streunenden verlausten Hunden, die sich an Dr. Spatz heranschleichen, Mücken, Fliegen, Bremsen, deren wir uns beinahe jeden Abend, mit Fliegenklatsche bewaffnet in einem stundenlangen Jagdritual erwehren, kommen die individuellen Grenzen und Bedürfnisse zum Tragen – für den einen ist es die Hitze, die es zu vermeiden gilt, für den anderen wiegen die Insekten schwerer, es besteht der Wunsch nach weiten offen Blicken ebenso, wie nach heimelig abgegrenzten netten Orten mit wenigstens basaler Infrastruktur, der Wunsch, möglichst viel zu sehen, steht im Konflikt zu dem Bedürfnis, mal an einem Ort anzukommen, diesen im eigenen Rhythmus auszukosten und während am Morgen manche schon den Sonnenaufgang begrüßen, liege ich noch schnarchend in meiner Käseecke (das so bezeichnete kleine Stück Bett, im hinteren Dreieck zwischen Matratze und schrägzulaufendem Dach, in das ich bei entsprechender Schräglage regelmäßig rolle).
Dieses komplexe Bedingungsfeld führt uns im Verlauf der ca. 12 Reisetage in diesem Land, täglich an die unterschiedlichsten Orte, ein kleiner Innenhof eines Gehöftes inmitten eines kleinen Dorfes, mit Dusche, Blick auf einem Kirchturm und viertelstündigem Glockengeläut in unmittelbarer Nachbarschaft zu einem polnischem Pärchen in den 50igern und ca. 10 lautstarken tschechischen Jugendlichen, die sich hier ein Lager für die Nacht aufgeschlagen haben.
Ein Parkplatz bei sengender Hitze selbst in der Nacht und lustig saugenden Moskitos nahe dem Zentrum der Stadt Arad. Eine saftig grüne Ebene mit Weitblick auf die sie umgebenden lieblichen Hügel, ein Platz, an dem wir Besuch von einem jungen Fuchs haben und Boule spielen.
(Am nächsten Morgen bleibt Eule in einem Graben stecken – mit Hilfe eines Abschleppseils an der Anhängerkupplung des VW California Beach, gelingt es schnell, sie auf den sicheren Schotterweg zurück zu bringen):
Dieses Grundrauschen der Bedingungen durchzieht die Tage und führt zu einem bunten Gesamterlebnis, in dem sich jeder zu unterschiedlichen Zeiten in seiner Bedürfnislage gespiegelt findet. Jetzt, ich sitze am Tisch in der Eule, der Regen klatscht gegen die Fenster und verstellt den Blick auf das polnische Tatra Gebirge, der Wind heult während die Standheizung surrt und wohlige Wärme verbreitet, wird mir deutlich, wie viel reicher diese gemeinsamen Tage dadurch wurden, dass von jedem Impulse eingeflossen sind.
An dieser Stelle noch einmal meinen ausdrücklichen Dank an Tobias und Anke, die uns durch ihre gute Vorbereitung viele Türen geöffnet haben . . .
Im 12 Jahrhundert holte der König von Ungarn Deutsche ins Land (Rumänien gehörte zeitweise zum Königreich Ungarn, wurde aber immer wieder von den Türken besetzt und von mongolischen Horden überrannt).
Sie sollten den König dabei unterstützen, die Landesgrenzen gegen Türken und andere, feindliche Bedrohungen zu schützen. Im Gegenzug wurde diesen Deutschen, allesamt als (Siebenbürger – ) Sachsen bezeichnet, obgleich sie aus verschiedenen Teilen Deutschlands kamen, bürgerliche Freiheiten und eine freizügige Autonomie gewährt.
Brasov (Kronstadt) ist unsere erste Siebenbürgerstadt. Am Fuße des Hausberges schmiegen sich verschachtelt, bunt kleine und hochherrschaftliche Häuser aneinander, ausgerichtet zu dem sich weit öffnenden Platz im Mittelpunkt der Stadt.
An den Prachtfassaden der Herrschaftshäuser stehen in altdeutschen Lettern „Pfarramt“, „Schuhgilde“ und ähnliche Bezeichnungen, selbst die Speisekarten, die vor gemütlichen kleinen Restaurants ausgestellt sind, preisen ihre Gerichte in Deutsch an und die Fragen, die wir haben, stellen wir nicht in Englisch oder Spanisch (was in Rumänien aufgrund der romanischen Sprachwurzeln oft verstanden wird) sondern in Deutsch. Die Antworten und Gespräche erfolgen in einem spitz – östlich klingendem deutsch mit rollendem R, dessen Wortwahl an die Sprache aus Bücher längst vergangener Tage erinnert. Es sind diese Gespräche, die den Blick hinter die neurenovierten Hausfassaden der Unesco Weltkulturerbe Städte gewährt (Sibius (Hermannstadt), Medias, Sighisoara (Schäßburg) gehören noch dazu), die noch bis heute raue Wirklichkeit hinter dem schön anzusehenden Stadtbild.
Die Verkäuferin in der deutschen Buchhandlung in Medias, ihre Tochter arbeitet in Berlin bei einer Eventfirma und macht für den Mindestlohn die Buchhaltung, erzählt, dass ihre Tochter nun die Freiheit habe, sich ein Stück Schokolade zu kaufen, wenn sie das wolle. Das sei besser in Deutschland. Die Alten, meist schwarzgekleidete Frauen mit tief zerfurchten Gesichtern und spröden dicken Arbeiterhänden, die vor allem in den Dörfern das Bild prägen, bekommen im Monat 150.-€ Rente. Das Gas im Winter kostet 80.-€, wenn nur ein Raum beheizt wird. Mit der Wende sind die meisten der überdimensionierten Industrieanlagen, die Ceausescu in wahnhaftem Modernisierungseifer per Ucas aus dem Boden stampfen ließ, ohne das ihre Produkte je auch nur annähernd gewinnbringend verkauft worden wären, zusammengebrochen oder auf ein Minimum geschrumpft.
Wer hier noch Arbeit hat, verdient zwischen 300.-€ und 400.-€ und man darf daran zweifeln, ob diese Normalverdiener von dem Angebot einen adäquaten Nutzen haben, das Lidl, Kaufland und DM Markt in beinahe jeder größeren Stadt Rumäniens offeriert.
In einem Prachtbau in Medias, auf dessen bröckelndem Putz noch die Lettern aus dem vergangenen Jahrhundert „Sparkassenbank“ erkennbar sind, sitzt ein altes Mütterchen mit einem wackligen Rollator im Treppenhaus auf dem Absatz zum ersten Stock, blasse Haut durchzogen von dünnen bläulichen Adern. Im Treppenhaus fehlen die Fensterscheiben, die Farben einer ehemals aufwendigen Bemalung sind vergilbt und kaum mehr, als eine undeutliche Erinnerung an bessere Zeiten. Da sitzt sie, neben ihrer dicken, fahl und etwas stumpf dreinblickenden Freundin und erzählt über die Schmerzen in ihren Handgelenken, die nicht besser werden wollen weil sie Medikamente nur selten kaufen könne und das sie auch nicht mehr die Kraft habe, das Haus zu verlassen – ihre Freundin würde das Nötigste für sie besorgen, eben jene dicke Dame neben ihr, die nur noch am Leben sei, weil sie das Glück gehabt habe, eine Operation am Herzen in Deutschland bekommen zu haben. Sie erzählt, dass sie mit den Schwarzen auskäme, aber ihre Mimik deutet eher darauf hin, dass sie die Schwarzen ertragen würde, aber nur, weil sie keine andere Wahl habe.
Die „Schwarzen“, das ist u.A. die bildschöne junge Frau, eine Zigeunerin (wie die Sinti und Roma sich selbst durchaus stolz bezeichnen ohne in diesem Zusammenhang je von politischer Korrektnes gehört zu haben) die ebenfalls mit ihrer großen Familie in diesem Haus wohnt. In wenigen Wochen soll es geräumt und zu einem Museum umgebaut werden, dann werden Touristen vor einer frischen Fassade stehen und die Baukunst vergangener Jahrhunderte preisen.
Mitten in dieser gebirgigen, zeitweise düster bewaldeten Gegend nimmt uns das auf Hügeln liegende Städtchen Sighisoara (Schäßburg) auf und es wirkt wie all die anderen Siebenbürgen Städte sonderbar vertraut, beinahe heimisch, als befände man sich in einer vom Krieg verschonten Altstadt irgendwo in Thüringen. Der Blick auf die Kirchen in Siebenbürgen macht allerdings schnell deutlich, dass es sich nicht um Thüringen handelt. Diese Kirchen, die in der ganzen Region verteilt sind gleichen teutonischen Trutzburgen, was sie in ihrem Wesenskern auch sind: Mit riesigen Wachtürmen, dreifachen Mauerringen die den klösterlich wirkenden Innenhof einhegen, mit Schießscharten und äußerst schmalen Eingängen stehen sie völlig überdimensioniert in der Landschaft, in Städten und Dörfern. Bei Angriffen durch Mongolen, oder Türken dienten sie als von den Bürgern selbst erbauter Zufluchtsort, hier wurde am Rande seines Einflussgebietes das Christentum verteidigt, (so, wie heute die Freiheit am Hindukusch).
Am Abend verlassen wir Schäßburg, fahren über kaputte Strassen weiter Richtung Süden. Strassendörfer mit ärmlichen Behausungen, die Hausfasaden ursprünglich in türkis, gelb, orange bemalt, sind ausgeblichen, Backsteine schauen brüchig unter dem maroden Putz vor, staubige kleine Wege gehen seitlich der Hauptstrase ab, verlieren sich auf kleinen Äckern – wenn der Regen kommt, verwandeln sie sich in eine schlammige Brühe. Auf klapprigen Holzbänken sitzen Menschen mit schwarzen Augen und dunkler Haut vor ihren Hütten und schauen den vorbeifahrenden Lastern, Autos, Eselkarren nach und uns – die auf uns gerichteten Blicke sind nicht unfreundlich aber scheu. Im ganzen Dorf verteilt Eselkarren, alte Dacias und ein brandneuer 7er BMW – er steht vor dem einzigen kitschig protzigen Haus, einem typischen Palast eines zu Geld gekommen Zigeuner Patrone – in der Dorfkneipe die aus einem winzigen Mixed Market mit ein paar davor verteilten Plastikstühlen besteht, sitzen Männer und trinken Bier.
Wir steuern „Probstdorf“ an, hier wollen wir übernachten. Auf den ersten Blick gleicht dieses Dorf den anderen Zigeunerdörfern, die wir passiert haben und doch unterscheidet es sich. Das offensichtlichste sind die offenen Gesichter der Menschen, die uns allesamt, sobald wir auftauchen, freundlich anlächeln oder zuwinken. Erst später kommen wir darauf, was das Dorf substanziell unterscheidet: die Menschen hier haben Hoffnung, sie fühlen sich nicht allein gelassen sondern haben verstanden, dass es möglich ist, sich ein Leben aufzubauen . . .
Es sind die sichtbarsten Früchte eines Projektes, ins Leben gerufen von einer deutschen Diplomatenfrau. Zusammen mit ihrem Mann hat sie sich zum Ziel gesetzt, den Ärmsten in Rumänien zu helfen, in dem sie ein Umfeld aufgebaut haben, das den Menschen Arbeit und Hoffnung gibt. Sie setzen auf eine nachhaltige Landwirtschaft, stellen Käse, Wurst und andere Konsumgüter bester Qualität her und locken Touristen in liebevoll restaurierte Pensionen oder Hotels. Als wir in dieses Dorf einfahren, freuen sich die Menschen, weil sie ahnen, hoffen, dass wir Vorboten einer Zukunft sind, in der sie mit ihrer Hände Arbeit ein bescheiden auskömmliches Leben leben können.
http://www.albota.sobis.ro
Unsere Bewunderung für diese Initiative ist aufrichtig – wir verbringen unsere Nacht im Innenhof eines liebevoll hergerichteten Gehöfts, das zur Pension umgebaut wurde. Die Pension öffnet nur zur Hauptsaison und ist ein kleiner Ableger des Projektes Albota.
Auf dem Dorfplatz brennt noch ein Licht in der Nacht, lebendig melancholische Zigeunermusik dröhnt aus einer Box und treibt zwei muskulöse Männer mit ihren Rhytmen in ihrer Arbeit an – es ist die kleine Käserei des Ortes, das kleine Tor ist zum Dorf hin geöffnet und wir sehen zwei sandgestrahlte Aluminiumfässer wie fremdartige Botschafter aus der Welt des Wohlstands, zwei im Licht der Neonröhre schimmernde Raumschiffe der Hoffnung auf ein besseres Leben. Sie putzen, es sind die letzten Handgriffe in der Nacht, bevor sie am nächsten Morgen wieder aufstehen, weil es für diese beiden Mäner nicht mehr egal ist, ob sie aufstehen – sie wissen, das der Käse geliefert werden muss und schon seine Abnehmer gefunden hat . . .
In Arad trennen wir uns – Anke, Tobias und Dr. Spatz nehmen im Senfgelben California Beach die Reise in Richtung West auf mit Ziel Tübingen – unser Weg führt uns Richtung Norden, durch Ungarn, die Slowakei mit Ziel Bukowina Tatrarska in Polens Süden.
Hier sind wir nun seit zwei Tagen, ein Ort, der uns etwas Heimat ist, eine alte Bekannte, die wir schon vor drei Jahren in einem Blockhaus genossen haben.
Hier ordnen wir uns neu, lassen die gemeinsamen Tage Revue passieren. Erfüllt von sehr lebendigen, reichen Tagen mit Anke, Tobias und Dr. Spatz sagen wir vielen Dank!!!
Morgen geht es weiter in Richtung Norden bis Gedansk (Danzig), wo wir nach Schweden übersetzen werden, um den Norden Europas zu erkunden . . .
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