Passstraßen kaum breiter als Eule, die sich so steil in schwindelnde Höhen winden, dass wir die Steigungen oft nur im 1 Gang bewältigen. Über 2000m hohe, schneebedeckte Gebirgsmassive, die jäh bis auf Null abfallen und im schwarzblauen Wasser der Fjorde versinken, speckig glänzende schwarze Felsen neben dem saftigen grün sanfter Wiesenhügel, rote Häuser und rote Äpfel, goldene Felder, orangenes Laub, überteuertes Brot und preisgekrönte Architektur inmitten urzeitlicher Natur . . .
Für den südlichen Teil Norwegens beziehen wir unsere Informationen (der Zufall will es so) aus drei verschiedenen Reiseführern (neben all den Informationen aus den unzähligen Hochglanzbroschüren, die appetitanregend in den Touristeninformationen ausliegen und von Caty mit Wonne gesammelt und studiert werden, natürlich auch in Hinblick auf schicke Bilder für unsere kleine Reisepinnwand). In Abstimmung mit dem Wetter App, planen wir, nachdem wir das beschauliche Trondheim hinter uns gelassen haben, die nächsten Ziele.
Im Polyglott wird empfohlen, die Aussichtsplattform auf den Geirangerfjord auf keinen Fall zu meiden, auch wenn das in der Regel bedeute, sich in die Schlange der Wartenden einreihen zu müssen (um dann das Foto machen zu können, das täglich Tausende so oder so ähnlich machen).
Der WOMO Führer vertreten durch Reinhardt und Waltraud (deren Empfehlungen und Redewendungen uns häufig kabarettistische Hörspiele ersetzen, wenngleich ihre im heiligen Ernst für die große Familie der Wohnmobilisten vorgetragenen Tipps vom ernsthaften Bemühen gespeist sind, eben diese große Familie tatkräftig zu unterstützen) verweist auf die Schwierigkeiten des Parkens und (wieder sehr eindringlich und in heiligem Ernst vorgetragen) darauf, wie mit entgegenkommenden Reisebussen auf der teilweise kaum 3m breiten Straße umzugehen sei.
Bei DuMont lesen wir, dass das kleine 250 Seelendorf Geiranger am Fuße des gleichnamigen Fjords, Übernachtungsmöglichkeiten für 5000 Gäste bietet. Zu den Übernachtungsgästen kommen die durchfahrenden Gäste hinzu, Wohnmobile, PKW Reisende, Reisebusse für Tagesausflüge und, in der Anzahl von Kleinstädten, die Kreuzfahrtschiffgäste (bis zu 4 Kreuzfahrtschiffe können in der vorgelagerten Bucht bei Geiranger vor Anker gehen), die dann gerne auf das Angebot zurückgreifen, mit einem gemieteten Elektro Twizzy von Renault, ebenfalls die Passstraßen zu bevölkern.
Neben diesen Fakten sind in allen drei Reiseführern eine beachtliche Verdichtung von verlockenden Adjektiven in Steigerungsform aufgeführt (atemberaubend, einmalig, höchste, steilste, eindrücklichste, sensationellste, schönste…).
Die Geiranger Passstraße, zur Weltausstellung in Paris 1900 als herausragendes Straßen-Bauwerk prämiert, gehört zu den „Nationalen Touristenstraßen Norwegens“ (Touristenväga) und damit zu einer der insgesamt 18 sorgfältig ausgewählten Routen, mit denen sich das Land Norwegen ihren Gästen aus aller Welt präsentiert.
Unsere bis dahin großartigen Erfahrungen auf den „Touristenveger“, die guten Wetteraussichten und die Tatsache in der Nebensaison zu reisen, führen uns zu dem Schluss, den Adjektiven zu folgen und den Massentourismus, wenn nötig, mit einem gelassenen Augenzwinkern als Forschungsgegenstand zu betrachten.
Die Adjektive aus den Reiseführern bewahrheiten sich und obwohl diese in ihrer Auswahl keineswegs bescheiden auftreten, stellen wir fest, das sie in keiner Weise ausreichend sind, dass Gesehene adäquat zu beschreiben.
Der überwältigende Rundumblick auf den in Felsen gesprengten Passsträsschen, die Aussichtplattformen in modernstem Design, die einem darauf stehend, das Gefühl vermitteln, man schwebe frei über einem jähen Abgrund, das Lichtspiel und die in dieser Anhäufung und Vielfalt zuvor nie gesehenen Varianten von Naturwundern führt uns deutlich vor Augen, dass es eben doch noch Erlebnisse gibt, die virtuell nicht adäquat nachgebildet werden können.
Ein Höhepunkt der ansich an Höhenpunkten reichen Reise über die Touristenveger (Trollstigen, Geiranger, Sognefiell, Jostedalen, Auerlandfjellet) ist der Aussichtpunkt Dalsnibba. Er befindet sich im Gebierge am Ende der Geiranger Passstrasse in 1500m Höhe (und ist die höchste Aussichtsplattform mit Blick auf einen Fjord welweit – wieder Mal so ein Superlativ Norwegens;-).
Nach einem Obulus von 15.-€, den wir am Mauthäuschen entrichten, fahren wir noch ein paar hundert Höhenmeter die brandneue Passstraße aufwärts und Enden an einem Parkplatz, der für Hundertschaften von Touristen ausgelegt ist, aber an diesem sonnigen frühen Abend nicht mehr als 10 Fahrzeuge aufgenommen hat.
Unser Glück, auf wenig Touristen zu treffen, hält an. Tortellini essend, mit Blick aus unseren Panoramascheiben, schauen wir dem Licht zu, dass die mit Neuschnee überzuckerten Bergspitzen in immer neuen Varianten in Erscheinung treten lässt.
Ich schlage vor zu bleiben und es bedarf ein wenig Überzeugungsarbeit bis Caty zu der Einsicht gelangt, trotz des eisigen Windes nicht den Kältetod anheim zu fallen müssen.
Wir bleiben und teilen den Ort nur mit Sven, einem ebenso eingefleischten wie einsamen Multivan Reisenden, der nach Catys Ansprache kurzzeitig zwar etwas aufblüht, nach vorangeschrittener Zeit und einigen Gläschen Whiskey später, wieder in seinen (gewohnten?) Modus der Wortarmut zurückfällt – wir sehen ihn unscharf hinter seiner verspiegelten Scheibe in seine flackernde Elektokerze starren…
An diesem Abend schauen wir noch stundenlang der Sonne beim Untergehen zu, die irgendwann, nach einem bizarren Farbrausch, gänzlich verschwunden ist und dem Vollmond mit seinem silbernen Licht und dem eisigen Wind die Nacht überlässt.
Als wir den Sognefjell gequert haben (einer der höchsten Passstraßen Europas – ich erwähne das hier, weil wir ständig Superlative bereisen, was in Norwegen gar nicht anders möglich zu sein scheint – das nächste Superlativ wird Europas größter Gletscher sein, der Jostedalen) …
… finden wir direkt am Fjord einen ruhigen Platz auf der alten Strasse, die sich um den Tunnel neueren Datums legt. Es ist so warm, dass wir das erste Mal seit Tagen ganz beschwingt Stühle und Tisch aus der Heckgarage kramen.
Nach ca. einer Stunde rollt ein hochglanzpolierter lindgrünmettallikfarbener tiefergelegter Scirocco aus den 80igern vor. Ihm ensteigt ein Mittdreissiger, dessen Gesicht und Hände noch Restbestände seines ursprünglichen Babyspecks zu enthalten scheinen. Nicht unfreundlich aber doch eher reserviert, macht er uns darauf aufmerksam, dass wir uns auf Privatgrund befänden und zwar bleiben dürften, jedoch kein Feuer machen dürften und unser Müll mitzunehmen haben (traurig, dass er uns, gemäß seinen Erfahrungen, darauf aufmerksam machen muss). Dann entwickelt sich ein Gespräch. Die Flüchtlinge, die in’s Dorf gekommen seien, haben alles verändert, selbst im COOP gäbe es jetzt anderes Fleisch und Produkte, die er nicht möge. Es sei nur eine Frage der Zeit, dass eine Durchmischung stattfinden würde, dass die Norweger in diesem Dorf nicht länger reine Norweger bleiben könnten, wie seit hunderten von Jahren. Die Menschen würden jetzt ihre Häuser abschließen, Außenbordmotoren würden neuerdings geklaut aber er finde, dass die reichen Länder helfen müssten, aber die Grnezen seien eben erreicht. Er wirkt nicht unfreundlich, aus seinen Worten spricht weder Hass noch Fanatismus, aber eine tiefe Sorge vor Veränderung. So arm könnten die Flüchtlinge nicht sein, fährt er fort, denn wie sollte man sonst erklären, dass nahezu alle von Ihnen ein Smartphone hätten?
Das Smartphone bei Flüchtlingen scheint länderübergreifend ein Reizthema zu sein, als würden sie durch ihren Status der Hilfsbedürftigkeit den Anspruch auf ein Smartphone verlieren oder umgekehrt, das Smartphone Ausdruck generellen Wohstands bedeuten. Ich denke bei seinen Worten an eine Ausstellung der UNHCR im Technikmuseum Stockholm, die wir besucht haben: Hier waren von ca. 20 Flüchtlingen ihr Mobiltelefon in einer Glasvitrine ausgestellt, darüber eine Karte der individuellen Fluchtroute und die Geschichte der Flucht. Jeder dieser Flüchtlinge hatte eine Geschichte zu berichten, in der das Mobiltelefon zu irgendeinem Zeitpunkt lebensrettend war und in Folge der einzig verbliebene Verknüpfungspunkt mit all Jenen, die sie zurücklassen mussten.
Als ich auf diesen Umstand verweise, hört mir der Norweger zwar zu, aber Smartphone und Flüchtling, das geht nicht.
Er berichtet uns auch, dass es Hitler gewesen sei, der die Basis für Norwegens heutigen Wohlstand geschaffen habe, er habe Strassen und Tunnel gebaut, das Aluminiumwerk modernisiert und so manche Fabrik in der Region arbeite noch heute mit Maschinen, die während der Hitlerzeit gebaut worden seien.
Ich bin seltsam berührt, dieses kaum verhohlene Lob an den Führer einer Ära zu hören, der das Land andernorts in Schutt und Asche legte.
Der Abschied ist freundlich und wir bleiben nach diesen Ausführungen etwas verwirrt zurück, mit der trüben Erkenntnis, dass Veränderungen bei vielen Menschen nicht gerade auf Gegenliebe stoßen, obgleich sie unvermeidbar sind.
Am Morgen des 12.09 erwachen wir an einem kleinen Hafen, in dem nach einer stürmischen Nacht die Fischerboote gemütlich im Gleichklang schaukeln – das Bild wirkt so friedlich und aufgeräumt, dass wir kurz geneigt sind, den sturmgepeitschten Regen der Nacht, das über Stunden währende ohrenbetäubende prasseln auf dem Dach, als schlechten Traum abzutun.
Heute haben wir beide Geburtstag, aber das wissen wir noch nicht und so beginnt der Morgen wie so viele Morgen vor ihm. Eigentlich wäre heute unser freier Tag, ein Tag also, an dem nicht gefahren wird. Rational betrachtet, ist der Platz schön, lädt zum Bleiben ein, aber die Nacht sitzt uns noch etwas in den Knochen und in den undurchschaubaren tiefen unserer Psyche machen wir den Platz für die unruhige Nacht verantwortlich – natürlich spricht das keiner so aus, aber die Tatsache, dass wir uns sehr schnell einig sind, weiterzufahren, fußt auf dieser etwas abstrusen Verknüpfung: hätten wir erst den Platz hinter uns gelassen, könnten wir mit einer schöneren Gesamtsituation rechnen, was insbesondere besseres Wetter meint.
Im nächsten Städtchen gehen wir im COOP X einkaufen, ein Vorgang, der in Norwegen die Laune regelmäßig trübt. Obwohl der Kühlschrank nahezu leer ist, stehen wir wie immer mit der schlecht beantwortbaren Frage vor den Regalen, was wir einkaufen könnten. Das liegt nicht in erster Linie an den Preisen, die einen wünschen lassen, man wäre in der Schweiz. Das Angebot ist derart langweilig und unattraktiv, dass es beinahe verlockend erscheint, eine Zwibackdiät zu beginnen.
Am Ende liegt wieder lätschertes Gemüse im Korb, etwas Mineralwasser, 500g Kaffe gemahlen und zwei Packungen Snörfrisk, ein Streichkäse, der immerhin ausreichend salzig schmeckt und Finncrisp in Ermangelung eines Brotes, dass etwas weniger weich ist als ein Sofakissen.
Dann gehen wir auf Platzsuche. Bald müssen wir zur Kenntnis nehmen, dass wir an der Küste mutmaßlich nicht so schnell fündig werden – die Besiedelung ist dicht und die Wege, die nicht an einem Parkplatz enden, tun dies an den vielen in den Felsen kauernden Häuschen.
Nach etlichen Versuchen, nehmen wir eine Sandstraße, die landeinwärts führt. Sie ist vielversprechend, die Landschaft mit den bemoosten Granitblöcken in unendlich scheinender Formenvielfalt wirkt in der Sonne freundlich.
Die Steigungen mit geschätzten 10% Neigungswinkel, schaffe ich mit Eule nur im 2. Gang und mit erheblichen Schwung. Im 1 Gang wäre die Geschwindigkeit nicht ausreichend und sobald die Räder beginnen, auf dem bröseligen Untergrund durchzudrehen, ist die einzig verbleibende Fahrrichtung rückwärtsfahrend die, aus der wir gekommen sind . . .
Kurz vor einer Kurve, nimmt die Steigung wieder rapide zu. Ich gebe Vollgas im 2., Eule klettert dröhnend um die Kurve, wir passieren eine geöffnete Schranke, schaffen es bis zur Kuppe und atmen hörbar aus. Vor uns eine Ebene, Geröll liegt da rum, tiefe, breite LKW Spuren, sauber gestapelte Granitplatten auf Paletten am Straßenrand, seitlich, wühlt sich ein überdimensionales Grubenfahrzeug durch die Geröllmassen. Meiner Neigung folgend, offensichtliches laut auszusprechen, stelle ich erfreut fest, dass hier Granitstein abgebaut und zu Platten verarbeitet wird.
Unser Weg führt uns durch das Gelände und steigt wieder Massiv an. Geübt nehme ich die Steigung und hinter der Kuppe sehen wir eine ca. 50m/2 Granitfläche in der Sonne schimmern. Ich halte neben ihr an, sehe die roten Kuntstoffröhren, die in regelmäßigen Abständen aus der Oberfläche rausschauen und erkläre Caty, ganz Fachmann für Granitabbau, dass diese Fläche für eine Sprengung vorbereitet wurde.
Mein Kurzmonolog ist noch nicht ganz verklungen, als ein beachtliches LKW Horn die relative Stille durchdringt. Im Spiegel sehe ich, wie sich ein gigantischer Grubenlkw der Marke Volvo mit erheblicher Geschwindigkeit auf uns zubewegt. (Allen, die behauptet haben, Eule sei zu gross, sollte dieser Anblick nicht vorenthalten bleiben: Eule vor diesem Truck stehend). Das Horn ertönt nun beinahe ohne Unterbrechungen. Ich beschleunige und halte an der nächsten Stelle, die es ermöglicht, das Monsterfahrzeug vorbei zu lassen. Es ist uns nicht möglich zu ignorieren, dass sich da hinter uns eine gewisse Unzufriedenheit breit gemacht hat, für die uns jede Erklärung fehlt.
Als ich zu stehen komme, steigt ein durchschnittlich kräftig gebauter Mann Anfang 50 aus dem Truck und rennt lauthals schreiend auf uns zu. Worte wie „crazy“, „stupid“, „mad“ dringen an mein Ohr. Schon vor seiner Beschimpfungstirade hatte ich die leise Ahnung, dass wir an diesem Ort zu diesem Zeitpunkt möglicherweise nicht willkommen sind, aber dieser panische Aufruhr scheint mir nicht ganz angemessen. Bis der Mann, bei uns angekommen, sich weiter Luft macht. Als er in unsere Gesichter sieht, zwei völlig verwirrte Fragezeichen, wird sein Ton ein Hauch milder. Erst jetzt entnehmen wir seiner nicht abreissen wollenden Wortkette auch den Inhalt und uns wird schlagartig klar, was hier los ist: Die standen kurz vor einer Sprengung, der Countdown war bereits angezählt, als sie ein Wohnmobil mit etwa 50 km/h die Steigung hochschiessen und hinter der Kuppe verschwinden sehen, hinter der sie in wenigen Sekunden nach einem dumpfen Schlag eine aufsteigende Rauchsäule erwarteten. Der Vorgang wurde sofort abgebrochen…
Jetzt ist der Schreck auf unserer Seite. Offensichtlich bemerkt der Mann, dass unsere verwirrten Gesichter etwas blasser geworden sind. Etwas ruhiger im Ton, aber durchaus noch immer aufgebracht, fragt er, ob wir nicht die Warnschilder gesehen haben und die Schranke. Die Schranke ja, aber die war geöffnet (Bei jeder Passstrasse ist eine Schranke Standart, wenn sie geöffnet ist, darf man fahren). Er spricht noch von Polizei, fotografiert unser Nummerschild und dann kommen wir sehr schnell überein, dass es wohl das Beste wäre, wenn wir zügig den Rückweg anträten. Er folgt uns noch ein paar hundert Meter mit seinem Monstertruck, dann sind wir wieder allein auf der idyllischen Sandstrasse, die so vielversprechend wirkte. An der noch immer geöffneten Schranke, besehe ich mir die Warntafeln. Auf neongelben Grund steht in schwarzen Lettern irgendwas auf norwegisch, dass ich nur im Lichte der jüngsten Erfahrung als „Sprengarbeiten“ übersetzen kann. Ansonsten gleichen diese Schilder exakt jenen, die vor jeder Baustelle oder vor kleinen Abbruchkanten am Strassenrand warnen.
Ich habe also zwei norwegischsprachige Schilder übersehen, ohne auch nur eine Sekunde an eine wie auch immer geartete Gefahr zu denken.
Auf dem Weg zur befestigten Küstenstrasse, bemerke ich, wie sich langsam eine wohlig warme Dankbarkeit in mir ausbreitet. Beim Gedanken, dass mein kleiner Fachmonolog für Granitabbau beinahe die Funktion einer Grabrede erhalten hätte, muss ich lachen.
Caty braucht noch etwas länger, bis wieder das gutgelaunte Lächeln bei ihr auftaucht, dass ich so liebe und das mich täglich begleitet. Heute sieht es noch schöner aus!
Unser Geburtstagsessen, Pellkartoffeln mit Butter und Salat, nehmen wir mit Blick auf das sonnenbeschienene Meer ein…
Wir sprechen noch paarmal an diesem Tag über das Erlebte und ich denke über den hohen Wirkungsgrad eines im Bewußtsein wechselnden Kontextes nach.
Faktisch waren wir der grössten Gefährdung vermutlich zu jenem Zeitpunkt augesetzt, als ich meine Fachansprache hielt, ironischerweise mit direktem Blick auf die Quelle der Gefahr, ohne in meiner sonnigen Laune auch nur einen kurzen Gedanken an eine mögliche Gefahr zu verschwenden. Der Schock kam mit der Information, da war die Gefahr jedoch längst vorüber…
Schön, und was sagt uns das jetzt für’s Leben…? ?
Nach all den Landschaften, der opulenten Natur, befinden wir uns nun auf der Küstenstrasse in Richtung Oslo, wo uns abschließend das andere, das moderne Norwegen erwartet . . .
Mit lieben Grüßen, Knut . . .
. . . und Caty
Da läuft es einem ja beim alleinigen Lesen kalt den Buckel runter!
Aber da hat wohl jemand doch gemeint : Noch nicht an der Zeit, die müssen noch was in der Welt schaffen..“
Ja , NORWEGEN ein Land der Superlative – Das verdaut man nicht so schnell!
Schön, dass ihr uns so immer wieder teilhaben lasst an euren tollen, teilweise doch an recht dramatischen Erlebnissen…………
In Gedanken immer wieder mit dem Herzen bei euch!
MIPA
Hallo, Ihr Zwei,
da habt Ihr ja noch mal „die Kurve gekriegt“, gottseidank !!!
Ich kenne Knut zwar nicht, bin aber sicher, daß das ein großer Verlust gewesen wäre, von Dir, liebe Caty, ganz zu schweigen.
Noch eine schöne Zeit mit noch vielen positiven Erlebnissen, Gott behüt‘ Euch weiterhin, freue mich auf ein Wiedersehen,
herzlichst Heidrun (Stephan)
Ihr zwei Weltenbummler! Gott sei Dank haben die Himmlischen eine Einsicht gehabt und Euch rechtzeitig warnen lassen. Da blieb mir doch beim Lesen kurz das Herz stehen. Ja, Norwegen ist atemberaubend und eure Fotos wecken sehnsüchtige Erinnerungen. Diese Eindrücke müssen erst einmal verdaut werden und da ist es ganz gut, dass Ihr eine kleine Zwischenpause bei Jan und Claudia einlegt. Habt grossen Dank für eure ausführlichen Berichte die einen Alles so lebendig miterleben lassen.
Ich bin momentan vier Tage bei Stuttgart um einen sehr spannenden Malkurs mitzumachen, was Ihr in natura erlebt, versuche ich in Aquarell auf Papier zu bringen. Haltet weiter Herz und Augen offen, von Herzen und in Gedanken oft, oft , oft bei Euch Eure Mutt
Glück muss der Mensch haben.
Wenn es jetzt bei euch am Geburtstag immer Pellkartoffeln mit Butter und Salat gibt,wissen wir ja jetzt warum;)
Es ist sooo… schön euch zu folgen und diese Bilder…..
eine wunderbare Reise weiterhin
Wahrscheinlich seid ihr längst schon weiter gereist und habt neue Entdeckungen gemacht. Wir freuen uns gerade, die Bekantschaft von zwei Norwegern zu machen und denken fest an Euch. LG SiLo
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