Der langsame Weg zurück in die „Zivilisation“


Oslo, so lesen wir, wächst so schnell wie keine andere europäische Stadt, es ist das andere Norwegen, eingebettet in eine anmutige Scherenlandschaft, glitzert die neue Skyline aus Glas und Beton neben hochaufragenden Kränen in der Spätsommersonne, ein Vorgeschmack auf wirklich urbanes Leben in Amsterdam . . .

Wahlsonntag. Die warme Sonne steht über der Meeresbucht, gerahmt von kerzengeraden Dämmen, die sich wie an einem Lineal geführte Bleistiftstriche am Horizont verlieren.
Der Blick bleibt nur an Windrädern, Strommasten und geschwungenen Autobahnbrücken hängen – wir sind umgeben von flachem Land, flachem Meer, geraden Linien, einem genormten einheitsgrün zur Rechten, dem silbrig schimmernden Wasser zur Linken. Die Abendsonne wird in wenigen Stunden alles in ein Licht tauchen, das selbst ostdeutsche Plattenbauten attraktiv erscheinen läßt und um ein vielfaches mehr, dieses flache Land mit weitem Horizont – Holland.

Vielleicht ist es gerade die Tatsache, dass sich der Blick frei von Hindernissen verlieren kann, die uns nach den Wochen im Dauerzustand des Staunens, Fahrens, Entdeckens, Aufnehmens, so grundlegend zur Ruhe kommen lässt.
Die Wäschekette ist wieder auf Anfang, wir haben gewählt, Eule hat einen Oelwechsel hinter sich, endlich funktioniert auch das Abblendlicht auf beiden Seiten wieder und der Blinker arbeitet stabil – in Herford, unserer deutschen Zwischenstation bei Jan, bereiten wir alles vor für den letzten Abschnitt unserer Reise, der uns über Amsterdam zu den europafernen britischen Inselbewohnern bringen wird . . .
Es ist seltsam, wieder zu verstehen, was nebenan gesprochen wird, wieder mühelos alles vorzufinden, was überall sonst gewisser Mühen bedurfte, es zu finden oder um landesspezifische Entsprechungen zu entdecken.
Es ist, als würden sich die Eindrücke der letzten Wochen hier erst setzen (Hier: Holland am Meer, oberhalb von Amsterdam), als würde dieser einsame Parkplatz mit seinen frisch aufgetragenen Parkplatz – Markierungen, seinen Waschbetonmülleimern und dem sauberen Klo den Maximalkontrast liefern, zu der überbordenden, schroffen Natur Norwegens.

Oslo, das wir ohne nennenswerte Pausen durchkämmen, weil an diesem Abend „Kulturnacht“ ist und beinahe alle Museen offen sind (was uns Munchs „Der Schrei“ ebenso zugänglich macht, wie Damion Hirts halbierte Kuh und den Ort der Friedensnobelpreisverleihung inklusive all der Gesichter, die diesen Preis je erhalten haben), wirkt mit seiner Architektur, seinem mancherorten Prenzlauerberg Flair noch nach,

durchmischt sich mit den Eindrücken des großstädtischer wirkenden Göteburg, wo wir nach vier Wochen Abstinenz in der warmen Abendsonne im lebendigen Kneipenviertel unser erstes Bierchen genießen und einem Haitianer am Nebentisch lauschen, der uns erzählt, wie verrückt seine (mittlerweile getrennte) schwedische Frau sei. Für uns bleibt offen, ob diese Verrücktheit seiner haitianischen Perspektive entspringt oder dem Selbstverwirklichungstrip einer im Westen sozialisierten Frau.

Auf der STENA Line, die uns am frühen Morgen von Göteburg ins dänische Frederikshavn bringt kann ich mich dem Charme eines Fährenfrühstücksbuffets nicht erwehren (was auch daran liegen mag, dass in Kindheitstagen ein diesem Buffet nicht unähnliches zu den Highlights der Reise gehörte – ich esse Ei und Würstchen, neben Bier und Zigaretten die Grundpfeiler meines individuellen Glücks;-).

An dem Tisch, den wir per Nummer zugeteilt bekommen, sitzen zwei Schweden aus der Schereninselwelt vor Göteburg. Beide sind sie schwarze Schafe der Familie, weil sie nicht Fischer geworden sind, sondern Steuermänner auf einer der zahlreichen Fähren Schwedens. Die Grundschule befand sich im Dorf, die höhere Schule konnten sie nur besuchen, indem sie täglich mit einer Fähre 1 Stunde nach Göteburg schipperten. Sie erzählen von dem ständigen Wind, der ihnen zur Gewohnheit geworden ist, von den langen Winternächten, dem Grau, den windumtosten Weihnachtsabenden, dem Eis, dem Schnee. Und sie haben glänzende Augen dabei. Wie anpassungsfähig doch Menschen sind, wie gebunden an den Ort, den sie Heimat nennen…
Nach drei zusammenhängenden Tagen der Ruhe ohne Fahren (die ersten drei ihrer Art), werden wir Morgen Amsterdam besuchen und dann nach England übersetzen.
Nach dem kurzen Aufenthalt in Deutschland, den Wahlen mit seinen traurigen Ergebnissen, dem Informations – Up – Date, wirkt es so, als würden wir uns erneut auf die Reise begeben und wir freuen uns auf die letzten Wochen, die noch vor uns liegen…
Amsterdam.

Wir sitzen auf einem Campingplatz, die A10 hinter dem Kanal ist noch sehr belebt in der Nacht, es duftet nach angerauchtem Gras, wie überall in dieser Stadt. Dieser saubere Platz ist vornehmlich von jungen Menschen bevölkert, Gästen dieser Stadt, die gekommen sind um die Freizügigkeit des Kiffen Dürfens zu genießen. Wir bummeln durch die Stadt, schauen uns die sonderbarsten Läden an, in denen afrikanische Flechtkörbe neben emaillierten Thermometern der Marke Peugeot, Fiat, BMW ebenso zu finden sind, wie Kunstoffteekannen. Nebenan der Bäcker mit frischen Baguettes und schokoladenüberzogenen Waffeln, etwas weiter gibt es Fisch und Regenschirme und die obligaten Old Amsterdam Käsetheken. Die homogen wirkende Innenstadt, mit ihren schmalen Häusern, ihren zierlichen Giebeln und den filigran gestalteten Fassaden die beinahe alle individuell gestalltet sind und trotzdem wirken wie aus einem Guss, locken zum Bummeln, die belebten Straßen mit Menschen aus aller Welt scheinen wie das gelebte Versprechen, dass das Zusammenleben jenseits von Nationalität, Hautfarbe, religiöser und sexueller Präferenz möglich scheint.

Neben einer der ältesten Kirchen Amsterdams befinden sich die Schaufenster, hinter denen sich anmutig obszön Damen aller Herren Länder mit ihren körperlichen Früchten präsentieren, um sich gegen ein entsprechendes Entgelt, einem Freier „hinzugeben“.
Und wo immer wir hinbummeln, hat sich der kommerzielle Markt Etabliert.
MC Donald in Edelimmobilien, aber auch „Abercrombie&Fitch“, die ihre Läden wie religiöse Kultstädten ausbaut, wohl illuminierte Tempel, in denen als Verkaufspersonal nur Menschen mit idealmaßen arbeiten. Und aller Orten Käseboutiquen, in denen die ca. 5 Käsesorten, die Holland in alle Welt exportiert, wie Schmuckstücke in den Regalen liegen, nicht zu vergessen die Tulpenzwiebeln in allen Varianten und das „Weed Starter Kid“ für die Änfänger unter den Dope Züchtern.

Es gelingt uns nach längerem Versuchen unsere Sat-Schüssel so einzustellen, dass wir „das Erste“ empfangen können, um unseren Freund Hans als schwäbischen Kommissar (ohne Dialekt) im Tatort bewundern zu können – um dann, dank der Hilfe aus Deutschland zu erfahren dass es erst Samstag ist und wir deutlich erkennen wie sehr wir aus der Zeit gefallen sind – aber auch wie herrlich es ist einfach den Entschluss zu fassen einen Tag länger stehen zu bleiben und die Schüssel keinen Millimeter zubewegen.


Heute sind wir bei Freunden im Süden Englands angekommen – das Willkommen ist so offenherzig, warm und großzügig, dass wir uns an italienische Tage erinnern.
Die Sonne scheint und es ist Zeit für ein Besuch im Pup for having Lunch . . .
Liebe Grüße von hier, Caty und Knut

247 thoughts on “Der langsame Weg zurück in die „Zivilisation“”

  1. Euch Lieben, jetzt in GB, ganz herzlichen Dank für das Begleitendürfen in Gedanken. Das weckt herzliche Gefühle und Erinnerungen….
    Habt es weiterhin schön, gespickt mit interessanten Begegnungen und Erlebnissen!!
    Wir waren 5 Tage in der Bretagne bei Helmut und Antje und Walter-
    toll die Salzluft und das Kommen und Gehen des Meeres.
    Bämu+Mipa

  2. Immer wieder ist es eine grosse Freude von Euch zu hören. Geniesst die letzten Tage die sich ja bald an einer Hand abzählen lassen.Ich freue mich jedenfalls schon sehr auf’s Wiedersehen. Hoffentlich macht das Wetter ein wenig mit wenn Ihr durch Wales fahrt.
    Ich habe ein langes Chorprobe Wochenende hinter mir und habe an zwei Tagen 15 Stunden gesungen. Nächsten Sonntag führen wir den „Messias“ von Händel in der Marienkirche auf.
    Halleluja. Eure Mutt

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