das Land nimmt uns auf, offen, ehrlich, ein aus der Zeit gefallenes Märchenland an dem die Armut nagt und der Kommunismus sein monumentales Grau hinterlassen hat, welches schnell verschwindet in den Weiten der Felder, im Duft der Rosenblüten, der Hilfsbereitschaft der Menschen . . .
Die Wellen des Schwarzen Meeres, das sich in Wirklichkeit mit verschiedensten Türkisfarbtönen vor uns erstreckt, bilden mit ihrem Rauschen die akustische Untermalung zu dem Duft gebratener Zwiebeln mit Speck, die aus der Eule dringen.
Unser kleines mobiles Zuhause, noch vor einer Stunde hätte es ein jähes Ende nehmen können mit diesem Zuhause – nicht, weil uns ein wahnsinniger Überholender frontal gecrasht hat (was Anfang der Woche beinahe der Fall gewesen wäre), sondern schlicht, weil sie drohte umzukippen – das Vorderrad auf der Fahrerseite hing bereits frei in der Luft und ich, als Fahrer in diesem Moment, gefühlt freischwebend, leicht auf und ab schaukelnd in der Nachmittgagsbrise, habe mich nicht getraut, auszusteigen. Zum ersten Mal auf dieser Reise konnte ich meiner Gewichtszunahme etwas abgewinnen, meinem mittlerweile auf rosa sonnengefärbten Buffo (Bauch).
Die Ironie: wir hatten beschlossen – wir, das sind seit 10 Tagen Anke, Tobias, Caty, Professor Spatz der Stratege und Herzensbrecher (ein kleiner weißer Bolonka mit tiefbraunen Kulleraugen) und ich – wir hatten also beschlossen, das erste Mal einen Campingplatz anzufahren in der Annahme, dort für zwei erholsame Tage am Meer die Infrastruktur nutzen zu können die ein Campingplatz so zu bieten hat, Internet, Duschen, WC, vielleicht einen kleinen Shop mit kühlem Bier im Eisschrank, eine Waschmaschine, Strom. Was wir Infrastrukturell vorfinden, sind zwei Dixi Toiletten und ungefähr zehn Zelte mit großzügigen Abständen in einem lichten Kiefernwäldchen verteilt und einen so gut wie menschenleeren, in der Sonne weiß schimmernden Strand der sich soweit das Auge reicht, wie ein leuchtendes Band vom Türkis des Meeres abhebt. Natürlich beschließen wir zu bleiben und inspizieren einen Stellplatz auf dem weitläufigen Gelände, gerade noch im Schatten des Wäldchens und in vorderster Reihe auf dem halbhohen Abhang gelegen, der den Strand begrenzt.
Euphorisiert von der Aussicht auf einen freien Tag und ein erstes Bad in dem kühlen, frischen Wasser, fahre ich mit Eule den Feldweg entlang, der zu unserer Nische führt. Aus dem Augenwinkel sehe ich, dass ich mit viel Schwung die Böschung links des Wegrandes nehmen muss, um unser Plätzchen überhaupt zu erreichen. Im nächsten Moment geht ein knarzen durchs gesamte Mobil, ich werde auf meinem Fahrersitz unnatürlich in die Höhe getragen und fühle mich wie auf dem hochgelegenen Teil einer Wippe, die in dieser Position leicht nachschwingt. Erst jetzt begreife ich, dass Ich mitsamt dem Vorderrad in der Luft hänge, während sich die gesamte Beifahrerseite bedrohlich schräg zum Meer hin neigt. Es dauert eine gefühlte Ewigkeit, bis Caty meinen Rufen folgt und angeschlendert kommt – sie denkt, ich würde ein „Späßle“ machen, erkennt dann aber an meinem Blick, dass zumindest ich der Situation wenig komisches abgewinnen kann.
Schließlich kommt Tobi dazu und ein junges rumänisches Paar, das sich später als außergewöhnlich nett entpuppt und uns viel über Rumänien berichten wird. Die Damen stellen sich in den Tritt der Fahrerkabine um die bedrohliche Neigung des Fahrzeuges zu kontern, während die Herren das Mobil die Böschung runterschieben. Das Manöver glückt und ich begreife mit etwas weichen Knien, dass wir Eule nach dem Kauf im Herbst, heute nun ein zweites Mal bekommen haben.
Nach der Querung Griechenlands, erreichen wir am frühen Abend Bulgarien. Die Shops an der Grenze, die Fahrzeuge, fast ausnahmslos deutsche Modelle aus den 80igern, die Karren, gezogen von Gäulen mit spitzen Knochen, Kabelgewirr an farblosen Hauswänden, verrostete Hinweistafeln auf denen in kyrillischen Lettern zwischen den Rostflecken darauf aufmerksam gemacht wird, dass hier (angeblich?) EU Gelder für etwas geflossen sind, was nie fertig wurde, wenn es denn je begonnen wurde – alles erste Indizien dafür, dass wir in einem Land angekommen sind, dessen Durchschnittseinkommen auf Hartz4 Niveau liegt. Schnell liegen die ärmlichen Behausungen hinter uns und vor uns erhebt sich, Monumental und erhaben das Pirin Gebirge, das südlichste der drei Gebirgsketten, die Bulgarien Von Ost nach West durchziehen. In Melnik, auf einer Anhöhe inmitten der weiß leuchtenden Kreidefelsen, treffen wir auf Anke, Tobi und Professor Spatz. Erstaunlich, wie Vertraut sich die Fremde nach dem laut – fröhlichen Hello auf einmal anfühlt! Schön!
Das warme Empfinden der Vertrautheit wird ein treuer Begleiter auf unserer weiteren Fahrt und weitet das Spektrum der Erlebnisse schon deshalb, weil wir in Tobias und Anke auf top vorbereitete Reisebegleiter treffen. Zur Begrüßung gibt es einen doppelten, durchgängigen Regenbogen, der sich über die Kreidefelsen spannt und den wir gerne (und wie sich herausstellt Richtigerweise 😉 als Zeichen von höherer Stelle deuten (und sei es nur das Dach der Eule, von dem aus wir ein paar Fotos machen) für eine gute gemeinsame Reisezeit.
Schon am nächsten Tag sitzen wir in 37 Grad warmen Wasser im Schlamm. Nachdem wir Einheimische beobachtet haben die das Ritual ganz selbstverständlich vollziehen, bedecken wir unsere gesamten Körper mit warmen, nach Schwefel stinkendem Schlamm (für die Wahrnehmung verfliegt der Geruch sehr bald und wie sich herausstellen wird, verfliegt er nach der Prozedur gänzlich).
Nach einem Besuch in dem winzigen Bärenmuseum des Ortes Trigrad (Nahezu alle Einwohner in dieser Gegend haben schon wilde Bären gesehen), saußen wir, angeschnallt in einem Klettergeschirr an einem Drahtseil mehrere hundert Meter in den engen Canyon hinab und kaufen anschließend bulgarischen Honig.
Zwischen dem Balkan – und dem Sredna-Gora Gebirge liegt das Tal der Rosen. Hier wird ein bedeutender Teil des Rosenöles hergestellt, das später in den Parfümerien von Paris, London und Madrid verkauft wird – aus 3t Rosenblüten werden nach der Rosenernte 1kg Rosenölextrakt destilliert. In der Mittagshitze klopfen wir an das große, hölzerne Tor der Destillerie. Ein Mann öffnet, rundes Gesicht, üppiger Bauch, verhaltener Blick und verneint unsere Frage, ob eine Besichtigung möglich sei. Wir bleiben hartnäckig und fragen ein weiteres Mal nach. Er bedeutet uns zu warten.
Da stehen wir dann, durch die hohen Bäume nur spärlich von der stehenden Hitze abgeschirmt und nichts passiert. Endlich holpert mit schepperndem Schutzblech ein Fahrrad über den Feldweg zu uns heran. Eine Dame mit herben, kantigem Gesicht und freundlichen, warmen Augen versucht uns beschwichtigend klar zu machen, das eine Besichtigung nicht möglich sei. Dann zögert sie, lächelt uns etwas verstohlen an und nestelt ein altes Handy aus der Tasche. Es dauert lange, bis am anderen Ende abgehoben wird. Ein Schwall aus Worten verliert sich im Hörer, von dem wir nicht eines auch nur wenigstens deuten können, dann reicht sie den Hörer weiter an Tobi, der in Englisch den Deal klar macht. Wir dürfen Besichtigen, aber ohne englischsprachigen Führer dafür zum halben Preis und so wird die Dame mit dem kantigen Gesicht unser Guide, und sie taut zunehmend auf, bis sie uns am Ende der Führung mit herzlichem lächeln und ein wenig Stolz im Blick verabschiedet. Die Welt, in die wir eintauchen, scheint einem Kinderbuch entnommen. Der stille Innenhof, die weiten Felder, an denen nur noch wenige Rosenblüten hängen, weil die Ernte schon vorüber ist. Für die Ernte muss der richtige Zeitpunkt gefunden werden, damit die Rosenblüten genau das Öl geben, das in der ganzen Welt begehrt ist. Geerntet wird in wenigen Tagen, dann sind die Felder von Menschen überfüllt, die mit gekonnten Drehungen die Blüten Ernten – ich stelle mir einen geschäftigen Ameisenhaufen vor, das Wuseln, das Stimmengewirr das in den heißen Nachmittagsstunden etwas verebbt bis Kistenweise Blüten in der Destillerie verschwinden und wieder die süße Ruhe im Schatten der Bäume des Innenhofes einkehrt, die wir gerade genießen.
Die Donau erkunden wir in einem kleinen Boot, bestückt mit einem 25 PS Außenborder, der uns zügig über den trägen Fluß schnellen lässt. Christian ist unser Guide und mit nicht geringem erstaunen frage ich mich, wie er seine Frau Lydia, die in Saarbrücken historische Kulturwissenschaften studiert hat und in Sofia lebte hierher locken konnte. In diesem kleinen Ort sind es die vielfarbigen Blumen, die ein Zeichen gegen den Verfall setzen, unterstützt von der Kirche und ein paar Häusern, die etwas herausgeputzt sind und wirken, als hätten sie sich aus der K&K Monarchie hierher verirrt – diese Kirche, diese wenigen Häuser und Blumen stehen im Kontrast zu den Betonklötzen aus der Ära des Kommunismus, stillliegenden Industriebauten, einem rostenden Kran am Hafen, auf dessen Spitze sich ein Storch ein Penthouse mit rundumblick eingerichtet hat.
Christian ist ein Kind dieser kleinen Stadt, Tutracan, ein Kind der Donau und er ist herzlich und bestimmend. Er weiß wo der Pelikan inmitten von Kormoranen haust, blaue Kolibris umherflattern und er ist derjenige, der wie selbstverständlich den Takt vorgibt, wo die Sonnenschirme am unberührten Donaustrand zu stehen hätten, wo wer im Boot zu sitzen habe. Zwischendurch verlässt er kurz die Route, weil sein angestellter, gut gebräunter, muskulöser Boy auf der bulgarischen Seite der Donau eine voluminöse 3,5 Liter Wasserflasche gefüllt mit (mutmaßlich rumänischem) Benzin übergibt – kleine Grenzgeschäfte. Er ist freundlich, direkt, robust wie das Land in dem er lebt.
Nachts kommen die Mücken, hochfrequente Stimmen, Massen, sie lösen die stehende Hitze des Tages ab. Auch das gehört zu diesen Tagen in diesem so unberührten Land.
Während ich das schreibe, mit Blick auf das Meer – Caty und Tobi sammeln bereits das Holz für das nächtliche Feuer, dass nicht nur die Mücken abwehren soll, sondern auch unsere Wurstkringel erhitzen wird, erfüllt mich aufrichtige Dankbarkeit für diese gemeinsamen Tage in diesem verkannten Land!
Wer im Westen an Bulgarien denkt, denkt meistens in Substantiven wie Kriminalität, Korruption, Rückständigkeit. Zweifellos hat dieses so schöne Land unter diesen Geiseln gelitten – wir hingegen sind auf äußerst freundliche, hilfsbereite Menschen getroffen, die sich, egal wo, zu freuen schienen, Besuch aus Deutschland zu haben. Es ist ohnehin erstaunlich, wie oft die Daumen hoch gehen, wenn die Menschen hier gewahr werden, dass wir aus Deutschland kommen.
Das Land begeistert durch seine unberührte Natur und was für manchen als Rückständigkeit wahrgenommen werden könnte, bedeutet zugleich eine gefühlte Weite und Freizügigkeit, in der noch nicht jeder Schritt durch hundertfache Regelungen überfrachtet wird.
Wir haben Land und Leute lieben gelernt und so ist auch etwas Wehmut dabei, als wir in der sengenden Mittagshitze in der langen Schlange stehen, die sich vor der Grenze zu Rumänien gebildet hat…
Erinnerst du dich an das Rosenöl, welches wir im Süden der Türkei damals entdeckten – da überholte uns ein Motorrad auf dem ein junger Türke uns in DEUTSCH ansprach – er machte gerade Urlaub von Deutschland irgendwo im Neckartal….
Schön, dass ihr zusammen mit Tobias und Anke diese schönen Erlebnisse haben könnt!!
Euch weiterhin ganz spannende Begegnungen mit Menschen und Land…. Papa
Ihr lieben Abenteurer. Eure Berichte klingen zu schön um wahr zu sein. Ich glaube ein wenig von Euren Gefühlen habe ich auch manchmal auf ganz kleinen unbekannten Inseln in Griechenland erlebt. Ihr seid Glückspilze, aber auch mutig durch welche verlassenen Länder Ihr Euch traut. Eure ausführlichen Berichte wecken Sehnsüchte und ich freue mich für Euch jeden Tag.
Inzwischen habe ich Euch schon mehrfach ausführlich geschrieben, aber irgendein Pumuckel sass ständig “ auf der Leitung“, sodass ich meine mails an Euch nicht los wurde.( oh Wunder der Technik). Uns geht es gut, wenn auch das Wetter ab und zu etwas kühler sein könnte. Nächstes Wochenende haben wir ein Mini- Familientreffen, Ihr und Jan mit Claudi und die Berliner fehlt uns. Denkt Ihr immer noch, dass wir uns in Schweden treffen können? Schafft Ihr das überhaupt in so kurzer Zeit darauf zu kommen.?
Vorhin war ein heftiges Gewitter, da konnte ich dann Catys “ Wasserübung gut ausführen.
Schön, dass ihr jetzt zu Viert seid. Grüsse an alle M.
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